[Caver]

Bruce,

I will be looking forward to your photos of your TM improvements. You've been busy!

If the Norcold does not have a thermostat when operating on DC and the converter is putting out 13.6 volts vs. 12.2 volts operating on battery alone then that would represent about 25% more power into the resistive element on the Norcold which could contribute to the freeing. It was my understanding that the DC element was intended to maintain the temperature and not for cooling down the refrigerator.


Since you have the newer converter I'm not sure what the nominal DC output is when operating on shore power. You might also check the refrigerator DC current with the Trimetric when operating on battery. It would be interesting if you could measure the current from the converter when operating on AC but that would require a shunt in a different location.

Ray