Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
The torsion bars have a round cross-section all along their length. There are no holes, slots, flat spots, pins, or other retaining provisions. In other words, they are held on by friction, so when you retighten the bolts, you must be pretty torque-y about it. The one thing missing from Dick's procedure, although it should be obvious in reading it, is that the shell should be open before you loosen the bolts. This "untwists" the torsion bars, taking the pressure off the support arms.
Bill
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Another resurrected old thread
I adjusted the torsion bars last summer on my trip home after picking it up - made the front a LOT easier to open. But... Just curious, does anyone know what the torque on those 4 strut bolts should be? Going to find the pocket stops and check the measurements today before closing her up for the winter. Based on a few things that I see on mine and have read in various threads, I suspect that I need to adjust the height of the shells, but that won't be happening till the snows go! I have a torque wrench that I use on the lug nuts, and if and when (another spring project) I get at adjusting the struts and pocket stops, it would be great to know that I was "torque-y" enough.
One person's "torqued" is another's "wrist tight"
