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Old 05-17-2022, 07:51 AM   #21
Larryjb
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
I tend to think the same thing. BUT ...

The thing that makes me nervous is that in order to grind the top of the stub, you probably have to pull the stub all the way out of the bracket. Then, after you grind, you have to insert the stub back into the bracket. With the shell raised all the way up, there isn't a lot of tension in the torsion bar, but it is still not clear to me that re-inserting it would be easy. Maybe I'm just not imaginative enough, or daring enough, but I really don't want to get involved with removing the other end of the torsion bar from the lift arm. I need advice from someone who has actually changed out a torsion bar.

On the other hand, if you choose to grind the top of the hole in the bracket, you could just pull the stub part way out of the bracket - pulling it out of the side with the adjustment hole (A in Wavery's pic), but leaving it poked through the other side (B in Wavery's pic). This might make it easier to re-insert. However, grinding inside the hole would have to be done with a rotary file, as Wavery mentioned, rather than a true grinder. Maybe not so easy?

Bill
Just so you know, that metal is HARD! I had to grind the hole on the corner bracket to accommodate my larger torsion bar. I don't see how I could have been able to do it by hand. I had to use my dremmel tool, and pretty much wore down my grinding bit.
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2002 Tahoe
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