Quote:
Originally Posted by coralcruze
This is the wire that is under the TM that is badly cracked. Then I inspected this it did not seem to have effected the internal wires but I knew then like I know now that this needs replacement. I patched it with heavy duty shrink wrap...
How many feet should I get? 10/3 wire right? I think I am also going to redo the junction box itself as it's no longer water proof. Might as well also replace the bargman female plug TM side. I already replaced the bargman receptacle at the towing vehicle so might as well do this too.
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My TM (2019, 2006, batteries originally "up front") has a "junction box area", underneath the rear of the fridge, which is quite different from your picture: My street side (behind the fridge) is without any of the 2-wire "sort of like lamp cord, but bigger" cables coming into your picture from the left.
The junction box itself, in mine, connects two 3-wire cables for running the Air Conditioner, at 120v. It was put there to provide freedom movement for the cable going up the lift arm, which is separated from the interior TM 120v wiring for that device. Both cables contain #12-AWG conductors. Within the roof, the 120-VAC Air Conditioner cord is, IIRC, 12-AWG Romex. (I didn't re-open it to confirm that while writing this).
But this is confusing: the "up the arm" 120v segment, coming out of the box, would not be tightly clamped to the floor and other cable at the right of your picture, and should not have been zip-tied to those 'lamp-cord-like' two-wire cables which apparently DON'T go up the lift arm.
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If this is the "up-the-arm" 120-VAC cord, there is just one slight risk in replacing this segment: On the corner of the shell, a small box provides connections to the within-the-roof wire segments. could be an issue in replacing the segment as a unit: The solid-wire Romex pigtails, within that box, are extremely short, and could become damaged (broken off) if you are not extremely careful in removing and then re-attaching/tightening the wire nuts.
If that disaster occurs, it becomes a somewhat slow "new" job to push (from the overhead AC end of the Romex) and pull (at the small shell side box) the Romex cable within the shell roof, having also excavated some foam material to provide room for new and longer pigtails at the on-the-roof AC end of the Romex cable.
This would be a suitable cord replacement, althogh you're paying extra for oil resistance. (You could maybe downgrade to an 'SJTW' cord, but I wouldn't do that). Cut off the terminal and create a pigtail, cut to length with another pigtail at the other end. The cord, like TM's original, is good for 20A current. Just the terminals are limited to 15A.
https://www.amazon.com/Woods-32472-1.../dp/B01I48XWM2
But, if it's the 120-VAC air conditioner cable, it's unrelated to your "12V" problems.
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The Bargman cable, in my 2006 2619, goes directly into the sealed hole behind the fridge, clamped to the floor tightly all the way - with no portion "hanging loose" until the front A-frame. And the cracked portion in the photo doesn't seem to contain all the conductors which would be present within a bargman cable.
But, if this photo is an abused bargman cable, it could be the cause of other issues (12v) with to-vehicle-controlled lighting, brakes, and/or TBC through that cable.
In either case, the zip tie and weird routing are probably a previous owner's mistake. It doesn't look like factor stuff at all.