I wasn't thinking about it, and threw away my sheet without providing those numbers here. I'll poke at the PID and get a listing. Although I did create "always off" and "always on" settings, they are never reached. The key values are the mode (cooling, of course), "target temperature" and something with a name like "maximum deviation desired".
But your older one might not have the same firmware as my newer one - these values did not exist in the manual at the time you bought yours. Interestingly, the PID never allows the Fridge to reach "target temperature". Instead, it keeps temps very tight, just slightly above "target" minus "maximum deviation".
One thing I do recall: Since it uses "kitchen-toaster-like" resistance heaters, it's desirable to have a VERY slow rate of On/Off switching (less stress on the wires). It also turns off the power and "thinks" for about 3 seconds per control period startup; you want to minimize that down-time in extremely hot weather. And, depending on where you installed your Relays and PID, you could hear noises during those the switch-off, think, switch-on cycle. So I set the control interval just below the maximum value, at either 198 or 199 seconds.
Photos of my install are coming, too. I might, in the future, replace the 12V line from the TM distribution panel with a new connection, tapped directly from the line which connects the Battery to the WFCO Distribution panel. That would avoid a voltage drop of about 2% along the Battery-to-Panel and Panel-to-Fridge +12VDC wiring. Along the lines of ScrubJayNests's mod, but with an "extra" 20A fuse in front of the supply line which now drives the Fridge:
here.
(The TM wiring has one fuse at the WFCO Panel, before going into the Fridge wiring junction. My DC implementation currently depends on that fuse, when bypassing the Fridge Fuse for the power connection in either "DC DIrect" or "Propane+ DC Direct" Operation. If going directly from the battery, I must replace that fuse with another.)