On a relatively clear day, from 10 AM until after 4 PM (daylight time) your panels (if exposed on the front shell) should be creating more than the "11-14 Amps" of which the fridge needs to run on electric. And during hours 11 AM - 3 PM, vastly more than that (the peak in my "490 watt configuration is above 30A).
If you leave early, as Bill described, you might have a shortfall during the morning - but can probably last for around 3 hours on batteries alone. (You didn't describe the size and type of your batteries). Following those early hours, your HUGE configuration will recharge the batteries AND run the fridge until about 5 PM. After that, your batteries will begin to get drawn down (slowly, at first).
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But, under clouds or driving at night, Solar doesn't work. This device would solve your problem:
https://renogy.com/12v-20a-dc-to-dc-...ttery-charger/.
This machine converts "low voltage" power from the TV into useful "battery charging voltage". The "Trailer Battery Charge" wire goes into a 3-way wire nut behind the refrigerator, but you don't need to make any wiring changes there. (Behind the fridge, it gets too hot to install the "DC-to-DC Battery Charger" device anyway).
Instead - identify and then remove that "12v" wire (coming from the 3-wire nut) at its WFCO 12-volt fuse board connection. Using a small 3-way junction, attach that wire as the "input" AND "ignition detect" wires on the "Trailer Battery Charge" unit. Pull a new wire from the fuse board, that becomes the output "Battery Charge". Connect the grounding wires together with other TM 12v grounding wires (on one of the little bus bars).
Secure the "DC-to-DC Battery Charger" to the floor, and you're done. While towing, this can run the fridge from the TV, and still have extra power for charging batteries. But don't buy a unit bigger than this "20A" model, a larger unit will burn out the bargman cable.