Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePair
I could have tied the hot lead into both fan and fridge through that switch, I suppose. That much is pretty straightforward, I think, just by spicing the hot fan lead into the feed off of the switch.
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Correct. That is what I did.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePair
Judging from your experience, then, there is no issue pulling the power for the fan off the fridge hot lead? The additional (albeit tiny) load doesn't detract from the fridge function?
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Correct. The fan does not draw much power....maybe 0.5A or so, compared to the fridge drawing 10A. I have not noticed any adverse effect on the fridge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePair
I guess what I'm suggesting would take it one step further. As you point out, I could always turn on the fan from outside if I tied it together like you have. My thinking is that interior override may be desirable.
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Why? The only time I could think this would be desirable is if you are camping already, and already inside, and for some reason you decide the fan needs to be on when it's raining. But the fan can wait till the rain passes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePair
One downside of what I proposed above is that the fridge DC will always be on if the fan is on inside, unless I put in a diode (I think). Would a diode work to prevent reverse power to the fridge--I would think so.
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Why is that a downside? The DC at the fridge was ALWAYS on prior to you installing the switch. With the new switch in the on position, you're simply at the same electrical state before you installed the switch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePair
I guess my next question, to you specifically, is, have you had trouble shutting off the fridge & fan when closed (like at a rest stop).
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No. The fridge and fan turn on and off with the exterior switch just as easily closed vs. when open. That's precisely the reason I installed the switch -- to conserve battery power when turning off the TV, at gas stations, restaurants, while setting up at camp, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePair
Since the fan's no longer venting, I'd imagine a heat build-up...but if the fridge is off, then there's no additional heat being made. I thought having the fan run even with the DC element off sounded like the best way to minimize heat build-up and maximize the function of the fridge on the road, but maybe I'm overthinking this?
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I'm not sure what you mean. The fan is venting -- it vents downward, pulling hot air from the fridge down through the hose and out the bottom of the trailer, not vice versa. I'm sure there is some additional heat generated behind the fridge when the TM is closed, but I have not had a problem. I think probably the only adverse effect from inadequate cooling of that area would be a warmer fridge, since the absorptive capacity of the coils is less (because they are warm). Thus, I have a wireless thermometer that measures the fridge and freezer temps, with the monitor being in the TV. Sometimes I can get a signal in the TV, but I can always get a signal if I just put the monitor next to where the fridge is. That's what I do when I stop for gas. The freezer actually is where all the cooling takes place. It will cool first, and warm up last.
Dave