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Originally Posted by btheo_TrailMini
Not sure if this is relevant, but I've been overhauling my Mini, moving to Lithium. (200ah Lifepo4). It is definitely a different beast, with pro's and cons. You won't be able to use the existing Powermaster system, as it doesn't handle the charge voltage and cutoffs correctly. (You'll damage the battery.) In my case I rewired from the ground up, (as part of a bigger system that integrates Solar and a 50A feed from the car's alternator.) You'll also need to make some small adjustments to be on Lithium's slightly higher voltage as well, like a 12v converter to your propane detector, which maxes as 12.5v. Though other things like the fridge actually run better on the higher voltage. Happy to elaborate as needed.
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I am familiar with "PowerMaster" as a manufacturer of auto and truck Starters and Alternators, but I didn't know that TM ever used a manufacturer other than WFCO (newer models) or Parallax (most models of 2006, and all earlier models in earlier years).
My own propane detector unit is an after market replacement, and I chose one with a higher voltage limit. The maximum operating voltage in my DC system is 14.2v, during short periods of "bulk" charging. My "float" charging voltage is 13.6v, and my converter switches into "storage mode" 13.2 volts after about 2 weeks of idle time. (There appears to be a bug in the microcode of that Converter: Even under load and reduced battery voltage, it stays in "storage mode" voltage unless I use the Charge Wizard override button to explicity choose a different mode.)
Unless you have replaced the OEM-supplied bargman cable and rewired your TV, the wires along the path for the "Trailer Battery Charge" circuit might be too small to support 50A without overheating.
In my own Tow Vehicle (an old 4Runner), I heavily modified the simple "TV Battery Charge" circuit (formerly a simple fuse followed by wires no larger than 14-AWG) to convert from engine compartment voltage to36.0 volts under the control of a dashboard switch. That provides power to the TM (through an MPPT solar controller) with only 1/3 as much current occurring on the long wire path.
In recognition of the limited current handling within the TM's bargman power cord, I replaced the 30A fuse on the circuit to be only 15A. That lower limit applies to both the default "engine compartment" Voltage setting and the high-voltage alternate switched circuit. At the MPPT, I further limit maximum output current to only 30A, yielding a maximum of slightly more than 400 Watts into my LFP battery string under the high-voltage option.