Quote:
Originally Posted by krusen
Great minds must think alike, because my dad just offered the same suggestion. And it's definitely an option that would cost less, a factor that would help me convince my DW of the value of pursuing this project. However, I'm concerned that I would have an issue getting it in and out of the ramps because the tongue of the trailer will be toward the enclosed end of the garage in order to be able to open the door on the camper. So one option would be to use the accessory hitch for pulling it up the ramps, or run a cable up to the front of the camper if the consensus of this group is that the accessory hitch would be too weak for this type of pulling stress. While the hitch's posted 100lbs load rating appears to be under stated since it's solidly bolted to the frame, I'm not sure that it's up to the 1000lb of force required to pull a 4000lb trailer up a 4/1 ramp. I'll give the factory a call tomorrow to get their thoughts. If they claim that the hitch is a valid jacking point then, I'll be good.
I'll also note that if someone else tries this in the future, don't think that you'll be able to back the TM in with it hitched to your TV with the normal hitch. The tongue will need to drop at the same rate or faster than the back end of the trailer to prevent the back from skidding on the ground as the tires drop.
Another variant on the hole for each tire idea would be to park the camper on top of steel plate hole covers, jack it up, remove the plates and lower the camper tires into the holes. My trouble here is in finding the right jack(s) that have enough lift to get the axle to a height of about 20" and then be able to lower it to a height of 3". There are air bag types of jacks that might work ( http://www.offroaders.com/directory/...ger-X-jack.htm) but keeping the trailer from tipping when using one air bag jack inflated 20" high, would be a risk that I'm not comfortable with. Another option would be to use a regular floor jack under the hitch on the back of the camper, but this would require 2000 lb of lift (more than the ramp option). Ideally I would like to find a couple of low profile (3") floor jacks that could share a remote pump that's not under the camper. But again, this is bound to cost more than the ramp idea... |
You could make the ramps any length that you want. It would also be easier to buy a concrete cutting blade for your skill saw. Just be aware the you will need to make a containment area for the dust with plastic drop clothes and wear a good respirator and appropriate clothing. The dust will be horrendous..
There are all sorts of things that you could do for lowering the trailer into the holes and pulling it out. A small winch comes to mind:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...nch-92860.html
You could bolt a "Tow Hook"
http://www.harborfreight.com/10000-l...kit-67497.html
to the end of either side (not bottom for clearance reasons) of the frame and use your TV or winch to pull it out. However, a rear mounted hitch would be better.
You would need to remove the center mounter tongue jack and go with a swing jack (like I did). Then you will need use a dolly (something like this one) to lower the tongue down on. You would have to put bars across this and bolt a bottle jack with a drop hitch welded to the top, so you could lower the tongue to the floor. The drop hitch would have to fall between the bars and actually settle on the floor for optimum clearance on the rear of the trailer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/checkout/cart/
There's always more than one way to skin a cat.......
