Originally Posted by Denny_A

bd,

Sounds as if the shell gap prob you mention could be from incorrect lift arm height. I had such a problem some time back and had to lengthen one arm and shorten another to remove the gap.

Adjusting out 1-2 inches may be a challenge. Since the gap is seen from inside, chances are that you will see a similar gap outside where the shells overlap. In any case you will probably need to raise one support arm by 1/2 the gap thickness and lower the other arm the same amount,

YOU ARE CORRECT. FROM THE OUTSIDE, HAVE ALSO NOTICED A SIMILIAR GAP.

First I would ensure that the trailer frame is absolutely level. Then, with both shells raised, and by whatever means necessary, determine how close to level each shell is. Say the aft shell is dead-on level and the forward is a couple of bubble widths off. Then you know ALL adjustments have to be made on the aft shell support arms. Maybe 1-2 inches need to be taken out of the street side support (fwd of the wheel), and 1/2 inch from the road side support(also fwd of the wheel).

STREET AND ROAD SIDE SOUNDS TO ME TO BE THE SAME. DID YOU MEAN SIDEWALK IN LIEU OF STREET???

IF THE LEVELING IS AS SUCH, WHY AFT SHELL ADJUSTMENTS; SINCE THE FRONT SECTION IS THE ONE THAT IS LEANING ... AND APPEARS TO BE THE ONE REQUIRING ADJUSTING?

If each shell is off-level, then it will be necessary to make whatever multiple length adjustments to close the gap and level each shell. Not fun!

Each arm is bolted to a torsion rod which stores energy in order to assist opening. When the shells are open, torsion pre-load is nil. Just above the support arm pivot point you will note four bolts which clamp the support arms to the torsion rod.

Vertical adjustment requires loosening all 4 bolts and moving the support arm, relative to the torsion rod, either up or down. The arms were not designed to make this an easy task. So a support, such as a scissor jack or bottle jack is needed under the torsion rod, and another support is needed under the foot-stirrup to limit the downward motion of the arm when shortening. Finally you will need to pound on stuff to make it obey! Lengthening requires supporting the stirrup and pounding downward on the torsion rod.

YOU SAY VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT. WHY VERTICAL? THE PROBLEM I AM EXPERIENCING EXHIBITS BOTH PLAINS; VERTICAL FOR THE LEANING PROBLEM ... AND HORIZONAL FOR THE GAP.

RIGHT NOW THE RODS AND THE SUPPORT ARMS APPEAR TO BE SET UNIFORMLY.
DO THE RODS GO UP AND OVER THE TOP OF THE SHELL ... OR DO THEY TERMINATE WITHIN THE ARMS? IN LOOKING AT IT, AND STICKING MY FINGERS UP IN THE OPENING, IT APPEARS THE ARMS HAVE A 90 DEGREE ARM WELDED ONTO THE MAIN PART ... BUT CANNOT SEE BEYOND THIS TO SEE HOW FAR THEY EXTEND UP.

WITH THAT IN MIND, IF I POUND UPWARD ON THE ARM SHROUD, WON'T IT BEND THE METAL? IT IS NOT A VERY THICK PIECE OF RECTANGULAR MATERIAL. AND IF I DO POUND IT UPWARDS, RELATIVE TO MY QUERY ABOUT IT'S HIDDEN LENGTH, IS IT SOMEHOW ATTACHED TO THE CLAM SHALL WALL SO THAT IT RAISES THE PLAIN OF THE SHELL?

RELATIVE TO THE FOOT STIRRUP, IS DIRECTLY UNDER IT THE PLAN ... OR ADJACENT ... TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SHELL. ASK THIS BECAUSE AGAIN, THE STIRRUP IS NOT A BIG PIECE OF ROD ... SO DON'T WANT TO BEND IT.

TO GO WITH YOUR LENGTHENING GUIDE COMMENT, I PRESUME THAT THE SHORTENING ASPECT THEN REQUIRES POUNDING UPWARDS ON THE ARM????


Finally, since the arm rotates 90 deg., the adjusted arm may not latch properly, requiring the latching bits be moved about. And/or in conjunction with the other lift arm (same side) cause bowing of the shell as it folds down or extra tension loading on the shell between the support arms. The split half door clearance is also affected by adjusting the forward shell arm next to the door. At some point it may no longer be possible to properly operate the door if too much shell movement occurs. Cause - effect. Those are just a few side effects of adjusting a support arm by a considerable amount. You'll have to be constantly checking for unintended results.

DO NOT FOLLOW THIS PART TOO WELL. WAS NOT AWARE THE ARM ROTATES. DID NOTICE ON THE LATCHING PARTS THERE IS A SMALL ADJUSTMENT SLOT BUILT INTO THE MOUNTING SCREW HOLES. THIS PARAGRAPH PUTS ME INTO THE ARENA THAT PERHAPS I NEED TO TAKE TO A REPUTABLE DEALER. ONLY THING IS, THE CLOSEST ONE TO US IS ABOUT A DAYS TRAVEL AWAY ... OVER IN DINUBA, CALIFORNIA. BY YOUR DESCRIPTION, SCARED IS THE KEY WORD ... AS IN SCARED TO SCREW UP SOMETHING BIG TIME.

Recommend you study on-it first, since words don't make for good visuals. Then get back to me if you need pics. I could set up a tutorial series of images later if need be.

BTW, once the shells are laterally aligned, the other "bowing" problem may be solved as well.

Denny_A