bd,
Sounds as if the shell gap prob you mention
could be from incorrect lift arm height. I had such a problem some time back and had to lengthen one arm and shorten another to remove the gap.
Adjusting out 1-2 inches may be a challenge. Since the gap is seen from inside, chances are that you will see a similar gap outside where the shells overlap. In any case you will probably need to raise one support arm by 1/2 the gap thickness and lower the other arm the same amount,
First I would ensure that the trailer frame is
absolutely level. Then, with both shells raised, and by whatever means necessary, determine how close to level each shell is. Say the aft shell is dead-on level and the forward is a couple of bubble widths off. Then you know ALL adjustments have to be made on the aft shell support arms. Maybe 1-2 inches need to be taken out of the street side support (fwd of the wheel), and 1/2 inch from the road side support(also fwd of the wheel).
If each shell is off-level, then it will be necessary to make whatever multiple length adjustments to close the gap and level each shell. Not fun!
Each arm is bolted to a torsion rod which stores energy in order to assist opening. When the shells are open, torsion pre-load is nil. Just above the support arm pivot point you will note four bolts which clamp the support arms to the torsion rod.
Vertical adjustment requires loosening all 4 bolts and moving the support arm, relative to the torsion rod, either up or down. The arms were not designed to make this an easy task. So a support, such as a scissor jack or bottle jack is needed under the torsion rod, and another support is needed under the foot-stirrup to limit the downward motion of the arm when shortening. Finally you will need to pound on stuff to make it obey! Lengthening requires supporting the stirrup and pounding downward on the torsion rod.
Finally, since the arm rotates 90 deg., the adjusted arm may not latch properly, requiring the latching bits be moved about. And/or in conjunction with the other lift arm (same side) cause bowing of the shell as it folds down or extra tension loading on the shell between the support arms. The split half door clearance is also affected by adjusting the forward shell arm next to the door. At some point it may no longer be possible to properly operate the door if too much shell movement occurs. Cause - effect. Those are just a few side effects of adjusting a support arm by a considerable amount. You'll have to be constantly checking for unintended results.
Recommend you study on-it first, since words don't make for good visuals. Then get back to me if you need pics. I could set up a tutorial series of images later if need be.
BTW, once the shells are laterally aligned, the other "bowing" problem may be solved as well.
Denny_A
Quote:
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Originally Posted by doonboggle
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In raising the front clam shell, and without anything being done to the rear section, noticed the clam shell has a noticable lean towards the sidewalk area; namely to the left as you face it from the tongue area.
There is a bowing to this side as well in the lower half. Not REAL BAD ... but bad enough to notice. Also, in closing it this morning, for the first time since our initial opening it, the rear section was somewhat hard to push in. Took both of us to get it done ... especially since I have a recent spinal operation. But, with persistant pushing by both of us, succeeded. Did not see any obstruction, binding, etc..
So, presume there 'may' be some adjustments I need to consider. I am not yet that sharp on the nomenclature language of the various struts, supports, etc... so anything you may offer, please make it basic if you don't mind.
One other noted item ... that is probably related...when fully opened, when sitting on the couch facing to the rear, up where the clamshell overhang is, there is about a 1-2 in. gap on the sidewalk side ... and about a 1/2 inch on the street side.
Thanks for all your help. Since signing onto this forum, have obtained a wealth of valuable information.
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