[rickst29]

Even on the 15" wheel, it's a good idea to trim the end (4 places) so that it can go further into one of the triangle-shaped cutouts of the wheel.

The distance between locking points (holes on the bar, setting the width), wasn't quite right to prevent aggressive wiggling and ultimate removal of the outside end from the cutout.

Two slightly large cuts (more long, less wide, and not going all the way through the corner of the steel) at the corners of the end closest to the tire (This is the "end" of the long triangular cut they made). And then, also necessary, a couple of tiny cuts along each angled portion, exactly where they "run into" the sides of the triangle.

I just ground it down on a wheel grinder, which took only about 5 minutes (very little steel was involved). I'll buy some red Rust-Oleum paint the next time I'm at a store.
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BTW, I can imagine an attack on the lug nuts, even the two under the plate, because I have to mount the "protector plate" in reverse from their pictures (with the plate away from the wheel, right next to the corner of the lock's welded arm). This is because the plate is too large to fit BESIDE the TM wheel's central "lube cone", and has to go completely on top-- and our central "cone" sticks out a really long distance. You can easily finger a lug nut into place under there.

But after the lug nut, you'll need an unusual angled "extender" piece, because there's not enough working angle to get the lug nut off. And of course, it's at 110 ft-lbs. And of course, you'll need to get the wheel rotating "freely" by lifting the whole thing off the ground first, so that you can swing the lug nut which you're attacking to a place where the TM body structure doesn't interfere with getting leverage.

There are two solutions to this "problem": First, with good cutting equipment, you could make the protector plate SMALLER-- so that it would fit beside the "cone", not having to go over it. It's then right on top of the lug nuts, with no room to put on a socket or wrench. But this placement requires reversal of the plate's mounting direction, back to the way they show it in pictures-- and that exposes the four kinda small welds to attack. The other solution is to have them (or your local steel fabricator) build you a much BIGGER plate, covering a lot more of the wheel.

My solution? Neither! Even if a "smart" thief comes prepared with equipment to attack both of the "protected" sockets while still under the plate, he's gonna be turning them one click at a time. Too slow! And after getting the wheel off, he's still gotta mount the spare-- another 5 minutes. The other, more direct attack (on the welds at a corner of a "main arm") is faster and WAY more convenient. The only thing this attack has going for it is the quietness: it's quiet.

As Bill, I, and everyone agree: if a dedicated thief wants YOUR Trailmanor, he's gonna get it. But this lock is so troublesome, he'll probably want to go for something easier-- 99% of Trailers aren't protected as well as putting on ONE of these.