[DanSTL]

Originally Posted by rickst29

(I'll reply WRT to the frayed 12v wires feeding customer-added cigarette lighter ports separately, following this post).

Working together over the phone, we were able to identify the various wires and connected components. In the end, it wasn't too bad - excecpt for the "extra" cigarette lighter connection wires.pe tfor the

The red switch (outside the small side of the box) controls the added battery shutoff inside. The internal connector lug is "closed" with the switch UP, between the TM "main 12v" wire (back to the WFCO) and the larger battery teminal wire.

Voltage on the battery terminals was slightly above 7 volts (a very low value, the battery is damaged and must be replaced). But, with the in-line glass fuse installed in the "Atwood" fuse holder, interior ceiling lights in the TM were usable (although dim). This indicated that the connection between the TM "main 12v" battery wire and the WFCO was good. It also indicated the ground return path (through the frame) to be good as well.

I asked Dan to plug the TM 30A 120-VAC main cord into the house/garage grid, and he was able to do that. We checked voltage at the battery terminals again, and found it to be slightly higher than I like (but not horrible for lead-acid non-AGM batteries). This indicated the WFCO converter mainboard to connected and operating OK.
- - -
I advised that he should probably leave the main cord (30A 120-VAC) connected within the garage in future (to avoid deep discharge during longer term storage). When the battery will be replaced, the cord should be temporarily disconnected only for the battery change.

We talked about battery options a bit, and then quit - calling a success. I still advise that the Atwood glass cylinder fuse holder be replaced by an inline 30A "Maxi" or "ATC" waterproof fuse holder, which can also serve as a shutoff - if he ever desire to have one. A pair of fuse holders is on order, the second for the purposes of replacing the current fuse holder in the 12v red wire to electric jack - the current one exposes the back side of the fuse, it's not sufficiently water resistant. ATC is OK, but Maxi fuses are better - because of the larger legs.

(My issue with glass-lined fuse holders is the spring at the bottom of one end, intended to hold the fuse tight. That spring has been are prone to issues of rust and weakness in many TMs, causing high resistance along the electric path through the fuse - even when the fuse is "good").

Definitely a success, and appreciate the assist Rick.

Bill at some point will make a sketch as it would certainly help me understand my TM, I found the plumbing sketch very useful.