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Old 03-30-2005, 02:58 PM   #6
RockyMtnRay
TrailManor Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 816
Default Rube Goldberg would be impressed!

GUYS!!! All of these elaborate plans to use inverters, 110 Volt power lines running from the interior of the TV back to the TM, under the TM and then eventually to power the TM's converter would make Rube Goldberg very proud of you!

But come on now, if you're going to go to all this effort to safely transmit rather dangerous 110 Volt power to the trailer, why not simply run an 8 or 10 gauge conductor directly from the TV's battery (or alternator) to the Bargman connector on the TV?????? The only protection you will need is a simple 30 amp self-resetting circuit breaker in the engine compartment. If you run the wire along the bottom of the TV, it should not take you more than 20 or 30 minutes total...and that's allowing time to properly secure the wire so it won't fray or be caught by road hazards.

As Bill notes, some of the manufacturer's engineers designed so many plugs/connectors into the trailer harness that significant voltage drop is entirely likely. If that's the case, simply bypass all that and do it right with your own heavy duty wire.

Never lose sight of the K.I.S.S. principle!
__________________
Ray

I use my TM as a base camp for hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, and climbing Colorado's 14ers


The Trailer: 2002 TM Model 2720SL ( Mods: Solar Panels (170 Watts), Dual T-105 Batteries, Electric Tongue Jack, Side AC, Programmable Thermostat, Doran TP Monitor System)

The Tow Vehicle: 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5 4X4 w/Tow Package (Towing & Performance Mods: JBA Headers, Gibson Muffler, 4.30 gears, Michelin LTX M/S Tires, Prodigy Brake Controller, Transmission Temperature Gauge)


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