TrailManor Owner's Forum - View Single Post

RockyMtnRay · 10-12-2003, 12:51 PM

My 96 Cherokee (4.0 liter, 190 hp I-6, 5 spd manual tranny, 3.07 axle) has been a so-so tow vehicle. Even with the short wheelbase (100 inches) I've not experienced any sway pulling my TM (even meeting semis on 2-lane roads with crosswinds) and I can stay with traffic if the grades are under 4% (even at elevations of 6,000 to 11,000). But on long climbs, it tends to run warm (has std radiator) and I will invariably be down to 2nd gear at 35 mph when climbing grades that get into the 6% to 8% range. I haven't yet experienced any control problems on steep (8%) tightly curving descents, but can't help but wonder how much margin of control I have in descending hairpin corners with the rather short wheelbase. Jeep rates the Cherokee for 5000 lbs total/750 lbs hitch with the automatic; until recently I hadn't seen any numbers for the manual tranny (assumed 80% of the automatic). Then last week I found a footnote on one Cherokee oriented website that said the limit with the manual tranny is 2000 lbs. Eeep! I haven't detected any clutch or tranny issues, but I am beginning to get signs the engine is getting combustion chamber carbon buildups from sustained full throttle operations.

And then last week I got a copy of the Mountain Directory West (http://www.mountaindirectory.com/) and had a real sinking feeling when I realized how many looooooong 7% to 10% grades there are here in the various western states. As currently geared and radiator-ed, I don't think I could handle even a long 7% grade, and definitely not a 10% (or higher grade).

So I concluded that even if I replace the radiator and differential gears I'll still have the short wheelbase and a clutch/transmission combo that's probably not designed for the towing weights I'm at. Clearly I gotta get properly geared (3.9 axle) mid-sized truck (at least about 130 inch wheelbase) with at least a 240 HP V8. (The true full size trucks in extended cab form don't fit in my garage). That meant Tundra or Dakota...on paper very similar power train, length, towing (6300 for the Dakota, 6900 for the Tundra), etc.

I went out and test-drove comparable Tundra and Dakota extended cab 4X4 V8 models yesterday....liked the Tundra's smoothness and aplomb on twisting mountain roads a whole lot more (compared them on a 3 mile long, very curvaceous 6% grade climbing from 6200 to 7400).

If I can find a properly equipped 2003, I'll be buying within the next week or so; otherwise I'll wait until around May of next year and order a 2004 equipped exactly as I want it. I've already ascertained that several Toyota dealers around the area have a few 2003 models with at least what I want equipment wise.

Has anyone got any experience and thoughts about using internet buying services like Carsdirect.com or Autobytel.com to nail a final price instead of trying to negotiate on your own with the dealers?

10-12-2003, 12:51 PM	#1
RockyMtnRay TrailManor Master Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 816	Gonna replace my Cherokee with a Tundra My 96 Cherokee (4.0 liter, 190 hp I-6, 5 spd manual tranny, 3.07 axle) has been a so-so tow vehicle. Even with the short wheelbase (100 inches) I've not experienced any sway pulling my TM (even meeting semis on 2-lane roads with crosswinds) and I can stay with traffic if the grades are under 4% (even at elevations of 6,000 to 11,000). But on long climbs, it tends to run warm (has std radiator) and I will invariably be down to 2nd gear at 35 mph when climbing grades that get into the 6% to 8% range. I haven't yet experienced any control problems on steep (8%) tightly curving descents, but can't help but wonder how much margin of control I have in descending hairpin corners with the rather short wheelbase. Jeep rates the Cherokee for 5000 lbs total/750 lbs hitch with the automatic; until recently I hadn't seen any numbers for the manual tranny (assumed 80% of the automatic). Then last week I found a footnote on one Cherokee oriented website that said the limit with the manual tranny is 2000 lbs. Eeep! I haven't detected any clutch or tranny issues, but I am beginning to get signs the engine is getting combustion chamber carbon buildups from sustained full throttle operations. And then last week I got a copy of the Mountain Directory West (http://www.mountaindirectory.com/) and had a real sinking feeling when I realized how many looooooong 7% to 10% grades there are here in the various western states. As currently geared and radiator-ed, I don't think I could handle even a long 7% grade, and definitely not a 10% (or higher grade). So I concluded that even if I replace the radiator and differential gears I'll still have the short wheelbase and a clutch/transmission combo that's probably not designed for the towing weights I'm at. Clearly I gotta get properly geared (3.9 axle) mid-sized truck (at least about 130 inch wheelbase) with at least a 240 HP V8. (The true full size trucks in extended cab form don't fit in my garage). That meant Tundra or Dakota...on paper very similar power train, length, towing (6300 for the Dakota, 6900 for the Tundra), etc. I went out and test-drove comparable Tundra and Dakota extended cab 4X4 V8 models yesterday....liked the Tundra's smoothness and aplomb on twisting mountain roads a whole lot more (compared them on a 3 mile long, very curvaceous 6% grade climbing from 6200 to 7400). If I can find a properly equipped 2003, I'll be buying within the next week or so; otherwise I'll wait until around May of next year and order a 2004 equipped exactly as I want it. I've already ascertained that several Toyota dealers around the area have a few 2003 models with at least what I want equipment wise. Has anyone got any experience and thoughts about using internet buying services like Carsdirect.com or Autobytel.com to nail a final price instead of trying to negotiate on your own with the dealers?