Only adjust the torsion bars with the shells up. When the shells are down there is too much force on the bolt, and the threads can be damaged if you turn it. The wrench is the same one used for hitch balls, and is easily available in RV stores. I got mine from the trailer section in the tool department of Home Depot.
Get some penetrating lube on the top side of the welded-in nuts before you start adjustment. If you can, a few days before.
Level the trailer before adjustment. Turn the bolt clockwise to increase torsion and the lifting force on the shell. Back the bolts off (first turn opposite to the direction you want to turn, and then in the direction you want to turn) each time you turn them. This will clear the threads of rust and grime and make the bolt turn easier, and will prevent damage to the threads. If the bolt is difficult to turn, go back and forward several times and it will clear up.
You can make it so that the shells take no force to lift, but this tends to put stress on the center latches while driving because the shells bounce, and the front-shell center latches tend to loosen up and cause friction damage to the shell (black streaks, lost paint where the two shells contact). I modified my center latches to deal with this, but it's better to have some reasonable weight holding down both shells.
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