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Old 10-20-2010, 01:21 AM   #23
rickst29
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,318
Default Keith, I *DO* disagree with Prodigy.

Here is the problem with Prodigy's method:

In bad driving conditions, with packed-down snow or ice, the Trailer pulls on the TV- very strongly. If one side of your TV rear axle starts slipping, your ABS will reduce the braking on that tire- but in this case, the TV's own brakes are not the only cause of the slippage. The Trailer, braking on one side but not the other, starts turning (front of the Trailer AWAY from the side with lost Trailer braking, and towards the front corner of the side where the Trailer tire still has braking power.)

Trailer brakes which are set "just below lock-up" on DRY PAVEMENT are prone to lock up far too easily on snow/ice/wet pavement. (One tire will probably start slipping long before the other, leading to the disastrous rotation result.) And so, I think it's better to make the Trailer a lot less "aggressive" than that: When setting the controller power on dry pavement, don't attempt to go anywhere near Trailer tire lock-up. Instead, go until you feel the Trailer "pulling your TV backwards" with just a moderate amount of "extra" braking power in comparison to the TV stopping all by itself ... and don't push the power adjustment any further. Prodigy is correct that the Trailer must never!!! have LESS braking than the TV... but looking for near lock-up on dry pavement, that's almost asking for tire spin with hard braking in bad conditions. TM Trailers do not have ABS brakes.
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TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 630 watts solar. 450AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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