Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
coralcruze -
That was lots of good info in your post - thank you for putting it up.
Question: you reported that for the tongue jack hole, you used a high RPM drill with a sanding wheel. Tell me more about what kind of sanding wheel / sand paper you used. What kind of grit, and how big? I would expect that the frame members would be softer steel than the torsion bars, and Larryjb reports that the metal is really hard, so I suspect that a quarter sheet of 220 grit out of my wood-finishing kit would not be up to the job.
As for the ability to re-insert the stub of the torsion bar into the bracket, I was glad to read that the fit was a bit loose. As you suggested, a bottle jack and a mallet might be enough to pop it back into the opening.
Several elements of the situation seem to be a bit different on different TM years/models. On mine, there are still several threads left on the adjuster bolt, so no problem there. And the adjusters on the middle bars are set at (or very close to) zero.
It is expected that different diameter bars will be used at the different locations. The center location of each shell seems to require less lift than the ends, probably because the end lifters have to lift the end walls in addition to the roof and sidewalls, while the center lifters don't have to lift an end wall. So smaller bars are appropriate. The trick for the factory is to use the right diameter bar at each location. We've had a couple reports (including mine) that on 2020 2720QS, the bar used at the front of the front shell is not quite adequate, and the next size up would have been a better choice.
Thanks for your inputs.
Bill
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Hey Bill... correction. I looked at my tools. I used a sandpaper wheel just to clean up the hole. But used a tungsten carbide cutting burr with my rottery. Don't know if anyone every used these but they make quick work of almost any metals. Just mark your hole and once close to the mark finish off with sandpaper. If cutting the bars you will go through a few cut off wheels but i think doable if clearance allows to get a tool in there. here also use diamond bit wheels.
As for the diff. Sized bars. I keep looking at new trailmanors on you tube and even the TM original vid of one opening and closing and they show it open evenly meaning the bottom of each half is parallel to the ground. If you are limited with torsion in the middle because the middle bars are smaller diameter than naturally you will take those in first. That's what happened on mine to the point that there is no more stored kinetic energy that those vars can muster due to thier diameter. That's why I feel they are under designed as I read that alot of people on here have the same issue. Hope that helps further?
Check this out... these are the tungsten carbide burrs I have. They really are this easy.
https://youtu.be/yn9lYKI3wSg