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Old 04-12-2019, 01:30 PM   #9
FlyboyTR
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
Interesting challenges, and some fun work.

In my experience, the running gear fixes should be first on your list.


When you say the brakes are useless, what do you mean? Start by making sure that the magnets are receiving electrical power, of course. Assuming they are, it is easy to remove and replace the hubs so you can take a look at shoes and drums. TMs come equipped with manual brake adjusters, so it may need a simple adjustment. Many of us have replaced the OEM manual brakes with self-adjusters. These are surprisingly inexpensive at eTrailer.com, and a snap to mount.

Bill
Bill,
Thanks for the reply and info. I am blessed that I am very much mechanically inclined and "at home" with all the mechanical/electrical/plumbing needs and appliances.

I generally always carry a spare set of bearings/races/seals/nut/washer/and cotter pin along with a wad of grease. All of this is vacuum bagged (food saver) and then that bag is wrapped in blue shop towels and latex gloves and then all of that is vacuum bagged again. Nothing worse than being in the middle of nowhere with no parts and supplies.

Grease...5 grease guns, all with different lube... Covered! LOL

Brakes: For the trip home yesterday...I had the controller set to 10/highest and even with that I was only getting a slight bump on the brakes when testing. When I pull the hubs I will be going through the brakes and am hoping they are just painfully out of adjustment...but shoes are cheap, if needed.

I had previously read about the lift system and adjusting it. While I could picture what was there...one I spent a few minutes looking at the system, it made the article I read a lot clearer. This morning I spent several hours trying to sort out the lift adjustment. On the front shell, front supports, one side was at 38.5" and the other 38.75". They are now at 39.5"...give or take an eighth of an inch. Looks better, door is better, etc. The rears are all about 3/8" low. I will tackle that later on.

Water tank filled and systems checked out. Everything now works...several leaking joints. Pull the anode from the water heater...JOKE...nothing there but a plug! Lots of sediment in the tank. Flushed it and then let about 2 gallons of white vinegar rest in the tank for about 30 minutes...flushed again. Much better. New magnesium anode is on the order list! Now heating on gas and the electrical element is working also. I will be installing a remote (inside) switch for the electric element. I have done this on all our previous campers (makes life much easier!).

Added a couple gallons of water to the toilet, about 1/2 cup of dawn and Borax and have been letting it run for a bit every time I think about it. System smells better and lots of gunk has obviously turned loose. I love the GEO method (use it in our bus and travel trailer) and am certain this system will benefit from it.

OK...rattling on... Thanks again!
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