larsdennert

After struggling with shells that don't seem to operate very well, I decided to do some reading in the forum. There are several threads describing various adjustment points on the shells but no real How-to Guide. Here are the tips I've come up with.

There are three basic adjustments for the shells.

1. Height and tilt adjustment of the shells.
2. Torsion bar tension.
3. Pocket stop adjusters.

In order to adjust the shells, or even open them for that matter, the TM should be sitting level in both directions. Failure to do so will cause the shells to be unbalanced.

1. Now open the TM. The first adjustment should consist of leveling the shells. Both shells must be parallel to each other and the bottom box. In other words, the overhanging portion should not be tilted towards the ground or uneven side to side. The height of the shells can be adjusted by lengthening or shortening each of the four arms that hold up each shell. This done by supporting the shell using jacks or some similar method and then loosening the four bolts on an arm where it ties to the torsion bar. It is important that the arms are all the same overall length. Leveling the shells will do that. If the arms are of unequal length, the shell will bind as it is lowered and the arms become parallel but unequal length. Take note of the distance between the two shells when erected so that the seals in the roof have an appropriate tension. Too much doesn't aid in closing the inside shell.

2. Just as each shell has four suspension arms, it has four torsion bars beneath the chassis that apply twisting force to the arm, counterbalancing the weight of the shell. Again, this adjustment is done with the TM open. The obvious conclusion to their adjustment is that by tighening the large screws beneath the chassis, more tension can be applied to the torsion bars and thereby aid lifting. If closing is a problem, loosening the screws will reduce tension. Unlatching the outside shell can make closing the inside shell easier too. It is important that the amount of tension on each bar left and right is equal so that the shell does not descend crooked and then jam. The adjuster for the right bar is on the left side of the trailer and vice versa. Also important is that the shell raises and lowers in a relatively level manor. This involves adjusting the forward and rear set of bars for the shell in relation to each other. A misadjustment here can make opening difficult. The outside shell must be latched before opening the inside one.

3. Late model TM's (sometime early 2000's) have adjustable pocket stops. The pockets stops limit how far the shells can open. Ideally you want them to open exactly to the point where side latches will enguage the pins to hold the shells safely open. Earlier TM's also have pocket stops but they are adjusted by shimming more or less washers into the stop. Close the TM but no need to latch it shut. You will notice that where the top of each shell support arm attaches to the shell, there is a plastic trim piece. Behind this trim is an adjusting screw on the end of the arm. Do not loosen the pivot allen screw that protrudes from the shell above the plastic trim. You want to find the screw in the arm itself. Loosening this screw will reduce the amount that the shell can open. All four arms have these adjusters. Adjust both screws on each side until the shell opens so the pins center over the latches on both sides.

Always try to lift and push the shells from the center so that they do not twist and jam. I hope this helps someone like it has helped me. Please feel free to make suggestions.