[rickst29]

We agree that "304" SS is a lot weaker, and would possibly need either 1/4" or 5/16 thickness (becoming much more expensive).

I could have complications with the interior floor "nuts" for those hanger bolts, likely being underneath the the 40 gallon fresh water tank on the street side. (The curb side has a slight complication with batteries on top - the floor underneath the batteries needs to be flat, although I could add some 3/4 plywood as "riser" for the batteries to rest on, with holes/gaps for the nuts.

The bigger problem is having only 1-1/2" of width, from TM front to TM back, for mounting the two screws at the end of the "counter support". In raised position, considerable torque may be applied by the strut to the opposite end of the counter support, with its full length as the "perpendicular arm" apply that twisting force. The rear-most screw is the pivot point, the second screw (less than one inch away) receives about 10x more twisting force than the force being applied by the strut. The ratio of their moment arm lengths is about 10:1) This is a bit tough on the bolt, and also tries to twist the forward side of the bar away from the TM floor. Under the TM floor, the plate is effectively only 1-1/2" wide (with a 3/4" moment arm trying to pull away from the floor in front, and a 3/4 moment arm trying to twist into the foor along the rear.

Those problem get reduced by more bar width, but a single bar with a lot more width becomes harder to bend. An alternate "solution" would be to add TWO of your L bars for each strut, separated by some amount of distance. The "forward bar" would have a slightly longer descending portion, the "rear bar" could descend by as little as 1".

My purchased angle bars costs more money (mostly for shipping), but provide a full 12" of length along the floor edge for several screws to resist both the tension/compression forces AND the torque. I'm inclined to use 6, maybe even 7 screws per bar. Much better than your welded tabs, and I have no welding experience.