TrailManor Owner's Forum - View Single Post - Replacing A/C power cord with twist lock connector

**MikeD** · 01-23-2004, 05:09 PM

We picked up our Trailer (a 2004 2720) in November. We love the trailer, but the new power cord arrangement really bugs me. My understanding is that along with the bumper redesign, TM moved the power cord so that the trailer could be powered when closed ;D. In order to accomplish this, they placed 25 foot of heavy duty A/C cable in the corner of the bumper (streetside) and an access point on the bumper's streetside. Since the power cord is very thick, it's almost impossible to pull the cord out through the provided hole and a real pain to pull it out from the compartment in the bumper :'(.

After fighting with this twice, I decided to install a MARINCO 30 Amp Park Power Kit http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstor...E023CBC7A9C5F8. This would get the cord out of the bumper, and let me store it in the back tool compartment where it can easily be accessed and deployed (when the trailer is open, otherwise you need to keep the cable out). The project was fairly straightforward and it works just fine with the trailer either opened or closed.

WARNING: this involves cutting and rewiring the A/C power to the trailer. Although it was a fairly simple project, if you are not comfortable with A/C electrical wiring, this might not be a project for you.

Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures of the trailer before I did the modification, but perhaps the ones I got afterwards can give you an idea of the work involved. Here is the compartment in the rear bumper where the 25 feet of cord was orginally stored (after the installation I only left about 3 feet of cord).

.

After removing the original cable hatch (which looked liked http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstor...E023CBC7A9C5F8), and cutting the A/C cable, it's a matter of following the enclosed wiring instructions, drilling 3 holes, and installing the new connector (the kit provides the necessary gaskets).

.

You can then use the remainder of the original cable and install a new connector on the end. This allows you to connect to the trailer and plug into shore power. This works when the trailer is closed and open.

Finally, I am able to store the new cable in the tool compartment (my batteries are mounted on the tongue, so I have the entire compartment for storage).

.

I've been really happy with this mod. It makes hooking up the electrical relatively painless.

Mike

01-23-2004, 05:09 PM	#1
MikeD Site Sponsor Join Date: Aug 2003 Posts: 92	Replacing A/C power cord with twist lock connector We picked up our Trailer (a 2004 2720) in November. We love the trailer, but the new power cord arrangement really bugs me. My understanding is that along with the bumper redesign, TM moved the power cord so that the trailer could be powered when closed ;D. In order to accomplish this, they placed 25 foot of heavy duty A/C cable in the corner of the bumper (streetside) and an access point on the bumper's streetside. Since the power cord is very thick, it's almost impossible to pull the cord out through the provided hole and a real pain to pull it out from the compartment in the bumper :'(. After fighting with this twice, I decided to install a MARINCO 30 Amp Park Power Kit http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstor...E023CBC7A9C5F8. This would get the cord out of the bumper, and let me store it in the back tool compartment where it can easily be accessed and deployed (when the trailer is open, otherwise you need to keep the cable out). The project was fairly straightforward and it works just fine with the trailer either opened or closed. WARNING: this involves cutting and rewiring the A/C power to the trailer. Although it was a fairly simple project, if you are not comfortable with A/C electrical wiring, this might not be a project for you. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures of the trailer before I did the modification, but perhaps the ones I got afterwards can give you an idea of the work involved. Here is the compartment in the rear bumper where the 25 feet of cord was orginally stored (after the installation I only left about 3 feet of cord). . After removing the original cable hatch (which looked liked http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstor...E023CBC7A9C5F8), and cutting the A/C cable, it's a matter of following the enclosed wiring instructions, drilling 3 holes, and installing the new connector (the kit provides the necessary gaskets). . You can then use the remainder of the original cable and install a new connector on the end. This allows you to connect to the trailer and plug into shore power. This works when the trailer is closed and open. Finally, I am able to store the new cable in the tool compartment (my batteries are mounted on the tongue, so I have the entire compartment for storage). . I've been really happy with this mod. It makes hooking up the electrical relatively painless. Mike