Quote:
Originally Posted by mikegascon1
First major question is DC.... I did test the battery with presumably no load and it read 11.1. I assume that means dead battery. But again, the jack works. It does go slowly and really works, but I just assumed it was a tired electric jack. If it can power the jack, wouldn't the lights come on for the panel with water levels? I also checked the water level in the battery and it looked fine. After I hooked the 7 pin plug to my truck, I noticed an outside light came on. That makes me believe my truck was essentially powering that light. I do not know the age or even brand or style of battery.
After I open it back up and leave the truck connected, if the lights work, can I assume the battery just needs to be replaced? I will check fuses also. Is there a fuse for the converter? I did not notice one but it was fairly dark in the trailer. Is the converter built in or around the breakers? I have read where people have upgraded their converter and I dont even know where mine would be.
Also of note, I did confirm the pin in the wall of the bathroom was depressed as it should be for lights to work.
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11.1 Volts on a lead-acid battery with no load indicates the battery to be at nearly zero state of charge and probably ruined. It was likely left unplugged with "phantom loads" consuming power, and no battery maintainer device to keep it charged. New batteries.
If your model year is 2007, then the "Load Center" was made by WFCO and the power converter "main board assembly" is in the bottom half. Since everything works while you have it plugged in, the MBA is not completely shot - but WFCO Converters from those years basically quit when the battery reaches around 85% charged. Lead-Acid batteries should be stored as close to 100% as you can reach without overcharging, and kept there for the maximum possible amount of time. For about $170, you could replace the converter section with a more modern and somewhat better replacement (another WFCO "MBA", or a "Boondocker"). For $250, you could switch to American made unit which I have - the "WildKat", a somewhat modified Progressive Dynamics Converter. It's just about perfect for lead acid batteries, including AGM and GEL types. But it's "Lithium" setting tries to keep Lithium batteries at 100% State-of-Charge all the time, which is great for lead-acid but a bad idea for Lithium. I have Lithium batteries, and get great results by using the "AGM"/GEL" charge settings. (Batteries rest around 93% State-of-Charge, which I can crank up by using the pendant to force "Boost Mode" whenever I want to push them higher). Victron Energy makes even better power converts than the Wildkat, and they have remote monitor capability - but they're more expensive and will not fit inside the WFCO assembly cabinet. Here's the link to buy the WildKat:
https://www.bestconverter.com/PD-465...te-_p_677.html
One common issue with TM trailers of that age occurs with the safety fuse within the battery box. A small glass fuse fits inside a plastic case, which uses a spring to hold the fuse somewhat tight. Over time, that spring often rusts and creates high resistance. I recommend that you replace that fuse with one of these. It's NOT waterproof, and needs to go inside the battery box (connecting to the wire which leads to the WFCO power center DC fuse board). Use the 30A fuse, unless you upgrade the TM wire size to 8-AWG or larger (then you could use the 40A fuse):
https://www.amazon.com/Febrytold-Gau...dp/B08QHKXD5N/