Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
It occurs to me that when you said --
-- you might have meant the 120VAC Alternating Current distribution in the trailer (outlets), and not the Air Conditioner itself. If that is what you meant, I jumped the gun and got us off on the wrong discussion. It is always worth clarifying those terms.
Bill
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I also assumed that's what you meant........
If you meant simply running a few 110V AC appliances (not the air conditioner), there are a few ways that they can be wired.
First, I will discuss hooking up your solar panels.
The solar panels can be mounted with solar "Z" brackets. Available on Amazon, eBay and most solar sellers websites. You can attach them to your roof with 1" wide, 3M VHB double side tape. No need to drill into your roof. Just be sure to clean all attaching surfaces thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. Attach the brackets to your panel(s) first. Do a dry run by laying the panel(s) in position on the roof and be sure that each one of the brackets lay flat on the roof panel. The rear brackets may need to be bent a little with vise grips or pliers to lay perfectly flat. Now attach the 3M VHB tape to all 4- brackets and carefully set the panels in place. Press down on each bracket (hard) for about 30-seconds) to activate the adhesive in the tape. Get it right the first time, there are no redo's. This attachment is actually stronger than using screws-
The solar panel(s) come with short pigtail wires that have MC4 connectors on them. That requires that you purchase solar wires (about 20') with MC4 connectors on one end. I prefer 8G wires but you can use 10G (a little small and less expensive) for up to 200W solar array. Those wires plug directly into your solar panel(s) pigtails with corresponding MC4 connectors already attached to your new wires. If you are installing multiple panels. You will need to buy MC4 "Y" connector pigtails. They are easy to use. Just ask if you are unsure.
Now, you are ready to mount your "Solar Controller". It is convenient to mount the controller on the back panel of the lower body of the trailer, next to the storage compartment door. That location is protected from weather and Sun, no matter if the trailer is open or closed. Just use S/S steel screws that usually come with the controller.
Now, plug in your MC4 solar wire connectors and run your solar wires across the roof to the driver side of the trailer and down the side (just in front of the widow and behind the upper roof bag seal when closed) then to the rear roof upper lift arm joint. You will need about an 18" loop at that joint before securing the cable to the top part and behind the lift arm. The loop is to allow for the roof raising and lowering. Secure wires , (I used plastic wire ties) about every 12" behind the roof lift arm, all the way to the lower lift arm pivot bracket. You will need to find a way to run the wire from that point to the controller. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the trailer entering the bottom of the storage compartment, in front of the battery box (back of the cabinet). I ran the wires into the battery box area, to the rear wall of the trailer where the controller was located. Then I drilled a hole about 4" below the controller (from the outside to the inside of the storage compartment). I ran my solar wires through the compartment, exited below the solar controller then cut the solar wire to length at about 6" outside the wall. DO NOT connect to the controller at this point.
You should have about 4' (or more) of solar wire left. That wire runs back through the hole that you made through the back wall (now you have 4 wires in that hole). As a side note......... everywhere that the wires pass through drilled holes, that wire must be protected from abrasion. I used short pieces of 1/2" PVC pipe and drilled my holes accordingly. Them I filled the PVC with calking.
The next step is to attach a 10G, "30A inline fuse" to the positive post of your battery(s). You will want to solder or crimp a 5/16" ring connector to the battery side of the inline fuse (pull the fuse out before connecting to the battery). Then connect the red solar wire to the other side of the inline fuse. It's preferable to solder but you can use a crimp style wire connector with heat shrink. Connect the black solar wire to the negative post of the battery. Run both wires out the drilled hole under the controller and hook them up the controller. The controller will be marked with + and - "Battery" symbol. Make sure your connections are tight, then put the 30A fuse into your newly installed inline fuse wire. Always be sure that the batteries are attached to the controller before making the connection to the controller from the solar array.
Now, you are ready to connect your red and black solar wires (from the solar array) to the controller. The controller will be marked with a solar panel symbol and a + and - connector.
Now you have your solar battery charger up and running to the batteries. Next, I will discuss hooking up the inverter if you found this helpful.