Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratty12
Hey all,
I have a 2005 2720SD and the water pump went out. With the fresh water tank, water heater, and un-pliable water lines everywhere Im not sure how to go about replacing the pump. e.g. removing it safely and installing a new one.
I found this post about cutting access holes for the faucet: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ghlight=faucet
which I need to do anyways since I also have a leak back there. But that will only help maybe to loosen the high pressure side of the pump.
One thought was to also remove the sink since I will have access to disconnect the faucet lines but Im not sure how I will be able to get to all four of the mounting clips that attach the sink to the cabinet.
Perhaps I will have to remove the fresh water tank instead, but that is also a tight fit and potentially will need more plumbing work if I cant get all those those fittings to be as snug as they are today.
Anyone ever have to replace the water pump on the 2720SD that could give me some advice/best practice? |
Just had to do that!! I had a leak on the outgoing fitting, then at the pump head, once I replaced the leaking connector on the high pressure side. I opted to relocate the pump to the top of the fresh water tank at the front of the cabinet. I cut the outgoing pex and replaced the entire original vinyl incoming line (it was old too, so I figured, why not!) and that outgoing section of pex with 1/2" braided vinyl tubing and gear clamps.
After being in and out of the back of that cabinet 3 times, with arms that don't quite reach, through that maze of pex, I figured this way I could actually put a filter on the inlet side and clean it, as one is supposed to do. Also puts flexible tubing on the outgoing side of the pump, also as you should do (this is according to Shurflo installation instructions).
I set it on a small square of 3/8 plywood glued to a piece of foam packing material. Screwed the pump base onto that. Screws go through the plywood and about 1/3 of the depth of the foam, so no damage to the tank. I haven't done it yet, but I will use 4 small squares of "Alien Tape" to keep that pad in place. Will be simple enough to remove if I need to access the back of the cabinet for anything. A lot easier than that back wall!!
The fresh water tank is a nice solid base, and with that foam pad underneath it, the whole set-up is quiet as a mouse - even with the door off.
Now I know that this negates the "using gravity to empty the pump for winterizing" deal. But I also installed a tank by-pass valve last fall, and I run RV antifreeze through the pump for winter. It doesn't take much residual water in a pump to damage it if it freezes. And although it was a PITA to get that valve installed, I am very glad I did. It also has given me the ability to test the integrity of any plumbing repairs without having to fill the tank. I am in a storage yard, and no taps available. Easier to pack 2 gallon jugs of clean water from home in the truck
Now regarding accessing the faucets... No suggestions. So far, don't want to jinx myself, but I haven't had a problem there.