Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
The torsion bars have a round cross-section all along their length. There are no holes, slots, flat spots, pins, or other retaining provisions. In other words, they are held on by friction, so when you retighten the bolts, you must be pretty torque-y about it. The one thing missing from Dick's procedure, although it should be obvious in reading it, is that the shell should be open before you loosen the bolts. This "untwists" the torsion bars, taking the pressure off the support arms.
Bill
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Thank you. I took a good look at it this morning when I first took the dogs out. At the center of the trailer, where both a rear shell and front shell white support arm are located, the bottom of the street side front shell support arm is about a 1/4" higher than the bottom of the rear shell support arm. On the curb side, the bottom of the front shell support arm is about 1/4" lower than the rear shell support arm. Which makes sense, but also indicates that I have to both raise the curb side of the front shell, but also lower the street side of the front shell. Not sure how it got all out of whack like that, but I'm going to assume since it's just sheer pressure holding the torsion bars in place inside the support arm, that over time, especially with snow load up here, or perhaps being parked over the winter slightly off level, that it just all slips a tiny bit every so often. Over time that all adds up. Amazingly enough, it opens and closes just fine, so I've been trying to figure out exactly what is wrong. I've known for a while that the beds looked off kilter, but up until this year, I haven't given it much thought (ain't broke, don't fix it), since opening and closing worked fine. So I thought it was just the beds off kilter - but they are level to the ground, because they sit on/ride on the bottom shell. Doh! But the door halves are off much more this year than they have ever been, which has forced me to look at it and figure it out.