[coralcruze]

Originally Posted by rickst29

Important: Both shells, or just one shell? And, does all of the interior ceiling lighting work correctly? If those LED lights DO work while plugged in, then it is an issue of insufficient voltage into the LEDs from the batteries. (You might think that the battery fuse looks fine, but the original TM inline battery fuses never failed by blowing the fuse -- they always failed by developing rust on the darned spring).

Are these only exterior lights, or interior as well?

In any case, you need to check the voltage on the leads which go into those fixtures, using a digital volt meter.

If voltage is ZERO, you have one kind of problem. If voltage is LOW but well above zero, then you have a different (and maybe harder) problem.

- - Zero Voltage - -

Somewhere, a wire is completely broken off, OR a switch hasn't been turned on. If the bathroom door switch is GOOD, and not merely pressed down, then the propane detector will be activated with a green light. If the overhead fan works, then the bathroom switch is OK *and* the front shell supply wire (connected behind the fridge) is also OK.

But if the propane detector came on while leaving the overhead fan dead, then most likely problem occurs behind the fridge. TM used a low-quality connector for the 12V wire into the roof, connecting just before the "bundle" which is made to go up the shell. This may have separated. Re-do that failed that butt-splice connector, with a better connector (such as a WAGO).

- - If well above zero, but less than 11 Volts - -

If less than 11 volts, then old style incandescent lights would definitely continue to work (with reduced light output). But the tiny "controller" chips which run the LEDs within LED fixtures might not be willing to "turn on" at all.

While plugged in, the "load center" provides more than 13 volts at all times. If voltage at the LED fixture is ZERO, then either a switch is off (bathroom door switch, or TM interior "courtesy light controller" switch by the front door, or the switch on the fixture itself) .... or a wire is actually broken/disconnected.

But, for the case of low voltage, you have many suspects. If failure occurs only with battery, first replace that battery fuse (AND it's holder) with a GOOD fuse, maybe one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/10-AWG-Inli...dp/B08K3NLV27/. Then check lamp lead voltage again.

Also check that the battery connection into the WFCO power center "DC circuit board" is tight (they can loosen over time). If you still have low voltage, in comparison to voltage at the actual battery terminals, the behind-the-fridge inline connectors are again a suspect, to be tightened or upgraded.

I can make a bunch of other and likely irrelevant guesses, but you haven't given us much to go from. To any more repair instructions, I will need to know:

1. From Battery only, or also failing while plugged in?
2. Both shells, or just one?
3. Does the fan run at all?
4. Interior lights, Exterior lights, or both locations?
5. Did you look only at the fuse, or have you ALREADY replaced the bad TM-original battery fuse holder with a good one?

Thanks for any answers you can provide, in advance.

Oh my gosh... this is tremendously helpful to me. I thank you for your thorough reply to my questions as this is the first time that I have the chance to sit and take all this in.

So first to reply to your questions to me.

1.my issues is occurring from battery only... All lights are working perfectly when plugged in. When selecting LED replacements I did so by selecting wattage that is less than that of the existing light fixtures. I think my issue is adding two more 3 watt much needed lights. My fault. One is connected to the propane sensor and the other is wired to the back storage and connected to that car 12v plug by the converter at the end of the hallway. Again this change worked on shore power when plugged in but not on battery only. My fault thinking that these much needed small 3 watt lights could be added. It's probably what you stated about being at 13v from the converter but batt voltage is less. I will take them off as I am sure thats what my issue is after reading your reply. I should know more soon and when I do I will report back with results... it sure would be nice to have at least that one 3w light in the storage compartment. I wonder if there is something I can connect to close to that rear storage compartment to have a light here that would run on battery? If not I will have to go back to a flashlight or separate battery operated light back there. can you confirm?
2. Both shells are down when on battery only but again probably due to adding two more lights.
3. No fan on battery only... works on shore power though.
4. Interior lights and patio lights are out on battery but work on shore power... running lights and break lights work on the Bargman but those are still the old lights at the moment. Bargman outlet is tested at 12.37v for running marker lights.
5.yes one of the first upgrades done was to a fuse holder you show with a 30v fuse in it which is intact so I unfortunately know about the issues you mentioned with the old style TM fuses.

So one thing I am def. going to do is work on that connection at the back of the refrigerator. I must admit that I am not positive which connector it is... I will have to really look at it and see. I will take a picture of the wires here and hopefully you can make heads or tails of it and be able to tell me which connectors need the upgrade. Almost everything here is connected using darn wire nuts and zip ties. Agrrr.