Quote:
Originally Posted by coralcruze
Oh my gosh... this is tremendously helpful to me. I thank you for your thorough reply to my questions as this is the first time that I have the chance to sit and take all this in.
So first to reply to your questions to me.
1.my issues is occurring from battery only... All lights are working perfectly when plugged in. When selecting LED replacements I did so by selecting wattage that is less than that of the existing light fixtures. I think my issue is adding two more 3 watt much needed lights. My fault. One is connected to the propane sensor and the other is wired to the back storage and connected to that car 12v plug by the converter at the end of the hallway. Again this change worked on shore power when plugged in but not on battery only. My fault thinking that these much needed small 3 watt lights could be added. It's probably what you stated about being at 13v from the converter but batt voltage is less. I will take them off as I am sure thats what my issue is after reading your reply. I should know more soon and when I do I will report back with results... it sure would be nice to have at least that one 3w light in the storage compartment. I wonder if there is something I can connect to close to that rear storage compartment to have a light here that would run on battery? If not I will have to go back to a flashlight or separate battery operated light back there.  can you confirm?
2. Both shells are down when on battery only but again probably due to adding two more lights.
3. No fan on battery only... works on shore power though.
4. Interior lights and patio lights are out on battery but work on shore power... running lights and break lights work on the Bargman but those are still the old lights at the moment. Bargman outlet is tested at 12.37v for running marker lights.
5.yes one of the first upgrades done was to a fuse holder you show with a 30v fuse in it which is intact so I unfortunately know about the issues you mentioned with the old style TM fuses.
So one thing I am def. going to do is work on that connection at the back of the refrigerator. I must admit that I am not positive which connector it is... I will have to really look at it and see. I will take a picture of the wires here and hopefully you can make heads or tails of it and be able to tell me which connectors need the upgrade. Almost everything here is connected using darn wire nuts and zip ties. Agrrr. |
This great post told me everything I need to know, thanks! Before I begin, a side comment: A mere 6 watts from 2 3-watt LEDs is not significant increase in power load. Any "increase" of less than 24 watts (only 2 amps at 12v) should be handled easily.
- - now for some instructions - -
You have made it clear (in answer #4) that there is
nothing wrong with wire connectors behind the fridge, and
nothing wrong with wires and connections within the two roof shells.
The
working power converter connection goes into the 12-VDC fuse board, upper right side of the WFCO power panel (which would be a Parallax panel, in the same place, in a TM which is older than 2006). Everything "downstream" from fuse board is good (all of the fuses, AND the wires going behind the fridge, AND the connectors back there, AND the wires up and into the roofing shells, and all the terminals - for both fixtures and the fan). You don't need to look at those.
Your problem is 100% certainly within one of just 4 places.
- The battery(s) have gone bad;
- The BATTERY connector fuse on the WFCO or Parallax fuse Board has blown (or the wire has become loose);
- The long wire from your battery pack(s) to the fuse board is broken or cut;
- The grounding wire from your battery packs to the frame has become disconnected;
Near the panel in the lower bathroom wall, there is a 12v "cigarette" power socket. Plug in any compatible device and turn it on (e.g. a small inverter, or a battery charger, or a compatible cellphone charger). A genuine load would be nice to have. Then, open the power panel and test the voltage on the fuse board while TM is NOT plugged in on 120-VAC. Your "ground" comparison is the lug on the left of the panel, the one which connects all of the 120-VAC naked/green "safety ground" wires. (Not the lug for white wires.)
Test 1: I expect that voltage to be well below 12V. It may be zero.
Now disconnect the Battery wire from its terminal. For the case of the WFCO circuit board, this terminal is either the upper or lower left-side terminal. Also check that it's fuse is NOT blown.
Test 2: Check Voltage on the wire alone - you should have the same reading as above. But if Voltage is good (12v or higher), then the problem is the fuse (replace it) or the whole fuse board (which can be replaced, but it is a part to be ordered). If voltage was good, stop here and post back.
Test 3: Re-check at your battery "+12v" terminal(s) versus the TM frame lug, and also re-check following your new in-line battery located fuse out put wire, where it connects the TM "long wire" running to the fuse board. If both show 12v or greater, but test 2 Voltage was low, then it is the long wire - and you need to replace it.
If batteries are up front, I would replace the AWG-10 wire originally supplied by TM with a bigger AWG-8 wire, but AWG-10 would also be OK. It just has higher resistance. I would also prefer to use red color, but you don't have to do that.