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Old 04-11-2023, 09:26 AM   #7
rickst29
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,318
Default This scheme as just as effective, far less costly than my 12v.

Slightly OT from the removal and replacement pictures.

My Dometic CRX-1110 EF/S would now cost at least $1500 delivered. There seem to be a lot of larger-than Norcold "compact refrigerators", 120V-AC only, which can fit within the Norcold cut-out: A few of the smaller ones could maybe even leave the radio in place.

For around $300-400, you can buy the fridge. Aside from adequate batteries and solar, which you need for a "12v compressor" fridge anyway, you only need to add a decent Inverter - and keep all the leftover money, hundreds of dollars.
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Although the running amps of these refrigerators is low, an inverter which is "rated" for less than 1500 watts continuous might fail, over time, due to the momentary stress in compressor startup cycles. Your inverter needs to be capable of delivering about 7x the running watts of a typical 120v refrigerator.

That "peak load" happens for only a small fraction of second, but it stresses the Inverter capacitors. It is my impression that may Inverters EBay, Amazon, and elsewhere) are being advertised with unrealistic peak capacities: They can maybe handle that load a few dozen times, bu the wear and tear will eventually cause it to fail.

I therefore recommend an Inverter rated for at least a "1500w continuous, 3000 peak" power delivery, to assure that it can last for all those fridge cycles.
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TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 630 watts solar. 450AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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