We had a similar set of decisions when we bought our used TM last September, and you're right about this being a lot to think about in a short time. What I learned:
- You can buy all this stuff there, locally, or on the Internet. the advantage of buying at home is that you get it all done by the same people who you will be able to go see when you get back (if you tell them to set the ball at 20" to be in the ballpark like Bill says, and then have it adjusted better when you get back) (sorry about the pun).
- The brake controller and trailer electrical connector installation were the hardest part. I had to do it myself because the local RV dealer couldn't work me into the schedule in time. Most of the time there is a connector kit available that helps a lot.
- The hitch was pretty easy (I bought a Reese 1000, because it's a little lighter than the ones made from heavier bar stock, from RVexit.com, because they were cheap at $190, including shipping). But I did have to adjust it 3 times before I got it right. The good news is that the installation instructions are all available on the Internet so that you can decide about the installation job before you buy anything. You don't need 1000#, because 600# would be enough, but the extra you're not using doesn't seem to be hurting anything.
- When hitching, the chain links determine how tight the bars are. After lots of analysis, I've decided that the easiest is actually the best: Lower the trailer on the hitch ball, stop lowering before the vehicle settles, engage the chain clamp where you can comfortably engage it and you'll be able to clamp it without a lot of force (maybe 30 pounds). Check your work by measuring at each of the 4 wheel wells with a tape measure before and after hitching. If the front numbers are higher hitched than not, go down another link in the chain.
Join the Forum, and let us all know how it turns out!
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