Hey Rickst, Lots of good stuff in here, thanks, so breaking it up..
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29
I am familiar with "PowerMaster" as a manufacturer of auto and truck Starters and Alternators, but I didn't know that TM ever used a manufacturer other than WFCO (newer models) or Parallax (most models of 2006, and all earlier models in earlier years).
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I was referring to Powermax, who make WFCO compatible replacements. Thats what my TM Mini 18' unit had installed, likely after the WFCO died. I haven't heard great things about Powermax, though I think they do make a Li capable replacement. But as you said, the stage charging details matter for LiFePo4 batteries, and I suspect you can't tweak the float on the units.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29
My own propane detector unit is an after market replacement, and I chose one with a higher voltage limit. The maximum operating voltage in my DC system is 14.2v, during short periods of "bulk" charging. My "float" charging voltage is 13.6v, and my converter switches into "storage mode" 13.2 volts after about 2 weeks of idle time. (There appears to be a bug in the microcode of that Converter: Even under load and reduced battery voltage, it stays in "storage mode" voltage unless I use the Charge Wizard override button to explicity choose a different mode.)
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Man, I wish I had known that existed. I only found the 12V products by SafeT. Great tip for anyone who hasn't already repurchased.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29
Unless you have replaced the OEM-supplied bargman cable and rewired your TV, the wires along the path for the "Trailer Battery Charge" circuit might be too small to support 50A without overheating.
In my own Tow Vehicle (an old 4Runner), I heavily modified the simple "TV Battery Charge" circuit (formerly a simple fuse followed by wires no larger than 14-AWG) to convert from engine compartment voltage to36.0 volts under the control of a dashboard switch. That provides power to the TM (through an MPPT solar controller) with only 1/3 as much current occurring on the long wire path.
In recognition of the limited current handling within the TM's bargman power cord, I replaced the 30A fuse on the circuit to be only 15A. That lower limit applies to both the default "engine compartment" Voltage setting and the high-voltage alternate switched circuit. At the MPPT, I further limit maximum output current to only 30A, yielding a maximum of slightly more than 400 Watts into my LFP battery string under the high-voltage option.
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Thats super clever! I assume 36v was simply the upper limit of your MPPT tolerance? Or is there another reason for that number? To your knowledge are there any concerns (performance inefficiencies or safety) for using an MPPT as a regular ol' voltage converter? My next project was to rewire the whole power line with 8ga pure copper, including the car and both 7-pin sides. My "Renogy dual 50a" controller allows simultaneous solar and and alternator feeds, but caps at 16v. But for anyone reading this who's not already invested, take note!
Just curious, how are you handling shore power switchover? I'm planning on wiring through a manual rotary switch. But it sounds like you're a few steps ahead.
Thanks,
B