Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane826
Once you get it set up correctly, why mess with the threaded rods and bolts? Leave them be. With the trailer still hitched to the tow vehicle, use the tongue jack to raise the coupler. This will effectively shorten the distance between the hitch and WDH brackets, giving the chains some slack. Pull the pin to drop the triangle plate off the bottom of the ball shank then lower the jack and disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle.
Reconnect the hitch on reverse order, but the key is to make sure the hole for the pin in the ball shank is perpendicular to the A-frame centerline. I got myself a 3ft piece of 5/8” aluminum rod from Home Depot just for this. Back the tow vehicle up to the trailer and attach the coupler to the ball. Insert the rod through the hole for the triangle pin plate and turn the ball shank so the rod is perpendicular to the trailer. Now the hitch is aligned no matter what angle it was at when you unhitched or re-hitched the trailer. Jack up the tongue jack, attach the triangle plate with the pin, lower it back to the ground. The chains will have the exact same tension as last time.
For those reading along, this all probably makes zero sense if you’ve never used an Andersen No Sway WDH.
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When my pin holes are out of line, I just raise the jack a little higher. This gives the chain more slack and allows some flexibility for aligning the holes.
I have to do that each time that I move the trailer. Both places that I park on my property are not aligned when dropping the trailer.