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Old 06-03-2010, 08:55 PM   #4
Mr. Adventure
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 668
Default Nissan Quest

I have a 3023 because it is only 50# heavier than the 2720's. You'll absolutely need a WDH, and you'll probably want to travel light: For example, you could get rid of about 100# of tongue weight by traveling with one propane cylinder instead of two and replacing the battery with a sealed gel cell type (much lower capacity, of course). I believe that manufacturers are conservative on tongue weight ratings because most cars and light trucks are very dangerous with a heavy hitch weight without a WDH (no matter what they rate for a tongue weight with a WDH, somebody will try it without one and discover too late that they can't stop or steer very well) (have you ever seen a boat trailer or a U-Haul on the road with a WDH?). Instead of filling the water up, travel with the FW tank almost empty. Dump your holding tanks before you hit the road, so you aren't hauling sewage around. Use aluminum cookware instead of cast iron, and don't bring stuff you don't need.

Always be careful to adjust your trailer brakes correctly. You have anti-lock brakes on your tow vehicle, but not on your TrailManor. You want the TM to do slightly less than its fair share in stopping so that you can't lock the TM wheels in a panic stop and so that you're not burning up the TM brakes stopping the TV. Never use a cheap brake controller that increases trailer braking based on how long you push the pedal.

Check your owner's manual. The calculation example they provide still has 3000#+ of towing capacity at your maximum gross vehicle weight. Using Harvey's numbers in the previous post, you have about 4000 pounds to work with between the curb weight of the Quest and it's maximum combined gross vehicle weight rating of 8500#. Do the math the way they tell you to do it, use truck scales to know where you really stand, adjust your load distribution to make the best of your vehicle, and keep your speed down if you're near your limits, in the rain, or on long grades.

If you visit the mountains, drive cautiously and expect your vehicle to lack horsepower compared to what you're used to. If you live in the mountains, want to camp in the boondocks, and "camping" means bringing your gasoline powered recreational toys or other heavy hobbies, you need to buy more tow vehicle in order to carry that stuff.

Start with short practice trips to work out the kinks. If your hitched up vehicle arrangement behaves itself, I'd go for it. If it handles poorly, I'd borrow or trade it for a bigger tow vehicle or a smaller TM!

And I forgot one very important thing: In the last several years, I've been towing less than 10% of the miles that I put on my Highlander. This is hugely different than spending months on the road every year, because 1) Whatever durability and wear and tear issues there might be in towing will take me many times longer to encounter than someone who is full timing, and 2) My benefit in owning a vehicle that gets me 20+mpg going to work every day is substantial, versus a vehicle that's oversized for it's primary application, which only occasionally tows anything, and which doesn't fit as well into the garage, traffic, or parking spaces. If I towed 10,000 miles every year, I'd want a bigger TV. If I was going on a 10000 mile two month trip with the intention of returning to my current lifestyle afterwards, I'd cheerfully look forward to the grand adventure without changing a thing.
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2005 TrailManor 3023
2003 Toyota Highlander 220hp V6 FWD
Reese 1000# round bar Weight Distributing Hitch
Prodigy brake controller.

"It's not how fast you can go, it's how fast you can stop an RV that counts."
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