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Originally Posted by Kidkraz
I had some minor struggle getting the trailer up high enough to pull of the damaged tire and get the new one on. We had to open the trailer, cause the socket to remove the lug nuts was in the tool kit sitting in the cabinet under the oven.
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Oh, my, that was a nasty experience. I'm sure you learned the same lesson that I did years ago. I got a plastic milk crate, loaded it with my "towing stuff", and I carry it in the back of my tow vehicle where it can be easily reached. "Towing stuff" includes a small 4-ton hydraulic jack and handles, a square-drive screwdriver to remove the wheel well covers, a lug wrench, chocks, a cordless drill and 1/4" Allen wrench to crank the stabilizers down, a 12-volt compressor, a few boards - you get the idea. Once burned, twice shy, as they say. BTW, I'm very impressed that your Caravan Mover survived.
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I do have some questions that are of concern to me. When we went to break the lug nuts free the wheel was in the air and was spinning. I thought to apply the truck brakes which I would think would stop that wheel from spinning, but it didn't.
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No, I wouldn't expect it to. Your brake controller is a good inertial one. It works by sensing when the tow vehicle is slowing down, and since your tow vehicle was already stopped, there was nothing to sense. In other words, it does not directly sense the application of the brake pedal - brake controllers haven't done that in many years.
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I tried to apply the brake using the test switches on my truck brake controller and the wheel still spun. This makes me question weather my left side trailer brake is operating properly or my brake controller is operating incorrectly.
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I think this should have worked. Assuming I am right, the problem is far more like to be in the TM under-chassis wiring than anywhere else. This is a good thing, and an easy (though annoying) fix.
Bill