TrailManor Owner's Forum - View Single Post

**rickst29** · 06-24-2020, 10:05 AM

The long "Solar +" Solar Wire from the roof should be the red wire, and the long "-" grounding Solar Wire should be the Black wire. There are two ways to wire solar panels - "series" and "parallel".

Most TM owners wire in parallel, using pairs of these "branch splitters": https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Conne...dp/B07DJ5PHSB/

The two advantages of wiring in parallel are #1, a single panel under shade or completely failed (or two out of 3 panels) does not harm the performance of the other "good" panels; and #2 the total VOLTAGE remains low.

But I wired my 4 panels in series. The two advantages of wiring in series are #1, less wire, no branch connectors needed (each "+" output goes to the "-" input of the next panel); and #2 the total CURRENT remains low, equal to the current of the "weakest" panel.
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Running 4 panels in parallel creates 4x as much current at the same voltage. Running 4 panels in series creates 4x as much voltage, with the current of only one panel. Power losses in the long solar wires ("Voltage Drop") increase with current-squared, so wiring in series is more efficient - as long as all 4 panels are working correctly. With just one panel failure, however, the whole "solar array" goes dead.

High Voltage is irrelevant for you, because I recommended a Solar Controller which handles up to 150 Volts quite easily. For people with "bad" Solar Controllers, too much voltage can kill the controller.

It is possible to run 4 panels in multi-mode, 2 pairs of "Two Panels in Series" connected to each other in Parallel, using one pair of splitters. For you, if you choose to get 4 panels, that might be optimal. Twice the Voltage and Twice the current, rather than 4x of one or the other, into the Solar Controller.
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Whether it is a Series or Parallel Connector, do not connect your long RED wire to it's corresponding branch connector "Solar + output" (on the final solar panel or branch connector). You CAN connect the long black wire "Solar Ground Input" for the panels. Then route your wires down the side of the shell, clamp to a lifting arm, and route to your TM entry holes near the Solar Controller. At the Solar Controller ends, cut off the final MC-4 ends of the Solar wires, and push the wires into your entry hole.

06-24-2020, 10:05 AM	#5
rickst29 yes, they hunt lions. Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 1,318	Wiring and connecting the panels. The long "Solar +" Solar Wire from the roof should be the red wire, and the long "-" grounding Solar Wire should be the Black wire. There are two ways to wire solar panels - "series" and "parallel". Most TM owners wire in parallel, using pairs of these "branch splitters": https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Conne...dp/B07DJ5PHSB/ The two advantages of wiring in parallel are #1, a single panel under shade or completely failed (or two out of 3 panels) does not harm the performance of the other "good" panels; and #2 the total VOLTAGE remains low. But I wired my 4 panels in series. The two advantages of wiring in series are #1, less wire, no branch connectors needed (each "+" output goes to the "-" input of the next panel); and #2 the total CURRENT remains low, equal to the current of the "weakest" panel. - - - - Running 4 panels in parallel creates 4x as much current at the same voltage. Running 4 panels in series creates 4x as much voltage, with the current of only one panel. Power losses in the long solar wires ("Voltage Drop") increase with current-squared, so wiring in series is more efficient - as long as all 4 panels are working correctly. With just one panel failure, however, the whole "solar array" goes dead. High Voltage is irrelevant for you, because I recommended a Solar Controller which handles up to 150 Volts quite easily. For people with "bad" Solar Controllers, too much voltage can kill the controller. It is possible to run 4 panels in multi-mode, 2 pairs of "Two Panels in Series" connected to each other in Parallel, using one pair of splitters. For you, if you choose to get 4 panels, that might be optimal. Twice the Voltage and Twice the current, rather than 4x of one or the other, into the Solar Controller. - - - - Whether it is a Series or Parallel Connector, do not connect your long RED wire to it's corresponding branch connector "Solar + output" (on the final solar panel or branch connector). You CAN connect the long black wire "Solar Ground Input" for the panels. Then route your wires down the side of the shell, clamp to a lifting arm, and route to your TM entry holes near the Solar Controller. At the Solar Controller ends, cut off the final MC-4 ends of the Solar wires, and push the wires into your entry hole. __________________ TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 630 watts solar. 450AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor). TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".