[rickst29]

You absolutely don't want a "lithium only" converter cooking your current lead-acid batteries to death, most will overcharge until your current batteries have been killed. That's a matter of days or even hours.

LFP battery cells need to be "pushed" to full only once, and the desired 3.60 volts per cell that job is only 14.4 volts on the pack. Lithium chargers that do were anything more 14.4 volts will harm the lifespan of those cells, the widely implemented 14.6 volts value 3.65 volts) is really not OK.

Power converters, except for costly Victron models, are not directly programmable. I have my own Progressive Converter set to handle my Lithium cells as AGM. The do not reach 'balancing voltage' from the PD in normal operating mode, the PD switches to "float stage" much earlier than desired for balancing.

But PD Converters have an optional push-button wired "remote controller", which I use to force bulk/boost charging whenever I want to push the batteries close to 100%. (That's mounted on lower bathroom wall.). I also have my Solar charge controller set to "float" at an abnormally high voltage 13.9 volts which does get into balancing mode with the BMS settings.

PD alone could also be set to sealed lead acid, because their "equalize" voltage is only 14.4 volts (and not higher).

A programmable Victron is better, but super costly for all the models which can provide enough power. A PD is probably your next best choice, and you can buy it before changing batteries. You should, in fact, continue to use one of the lead-acid modes SLA or AGM/GEL) even after you switch to LFP battery packs.