[nwhouston]

My post of yesterday may be what leads to the 'stabilizer tricks' question. So here is my set up process to get our door to even seat into the left door frame slot for others to comment on:

1. Roughly level side to side with boards or plastic plates based on how the site looks to the eye. This is done when first backing in; not common but does happen, particularly in state parks. How much board or plastic depth to use is a guess at best since plastic and wood are of fixed widths, and the chances of you hitting the side-to-side-level lottery is low. But I do try this step if the site is clearly sloping sideways.
2. Next (or first) I level end to end with the jack. This should be an easy step assuming the site does not slope to an extreme. I use a carpenter's level on the front tongue area for this step with a secondary check with the level set on top of the awning.
3. Next I will make a finer pass at leveling side-to-side with the level now across both the back bumper and the front tongue area. I try not to over jack any corner but I do try to get a reasonably clean center bubble at both ends.
4. Then we pop up the ends, set the aluminium stops, and try to set the door. In the last two years, this is where something has changed on our rig. Consistently now the swing-out door jam piece on your left hand that has the short post that should slip into the clip on the rear upper section will be in a bind. I am talking about maybe a 1/16" or so out. Not extreme, but enough that I cannot push that side piece into place. So here comes the 'trick': I go to the rear, opposite corner, and over lift that corner with the jack, then I go to the front corner on the door (passenger) side, and let off a few turns. Typically somewhere in about one to two goes of this manual 'stabilizer bingo' I will find a position where the door jam piece will seat.
5. I put the stairs down, set my level inside on the floor, and check front to back and side-to-side. The front to back should be solid, but if it is necessary I will lift all stabilizer jacks about an inch, and then make the front to back adjustment. Normally this is not necessary but I do check as I sometimes miss the 'clean' bubble up in step #2. Now I finish the side to side by lowering both jacks on whichever side is low just enough to get a 'clean' center bubble, then I lower the other two jacks so they are just picking up load. No 'over' lifting to try and get absolute to movement in the trailer.

The above works for us, it is just more time consuming now that the frame, seems to be out of parallel with at least the rear top section.

We have not had the issue of our two door sections themselves not being parallel and coming apart. It sounds like that might be another effect of a 'not parallel any more' situation.

The reason I restarted this thread after all these years is to see if Denny_A has the guide he published back in '03 on addressing door issues.

Welcome all comments on above. We are heading out for a two week run to Colorado at the end of August, and getting some progress on this extended set up step would be welcome.

Larry