Quote:
Originally Posted by mikegascon1
2007 3124 KB I think.
Most all lights worked on shore power. I assume I have a bulb out here or there. I unplugged shore power and nothing works except the electric jack. I tried, all lights, water pump, even the gauge under the sink and nothing came on. It is now closed so I can go get new tires tomorrow. I will check all fuses tomorrow. Could it be a dead battery? I checked the voltage at 11.1. But the jack works. Slowly, but it did work. It is wired direct to the battery. Wouldn't at least the lights for the water tank light with a low battery?
I did check the breakers and all were on. Other than the fuses next to the breakers, is there anything else to check? Note, I did confirm the switch by the tub was pushed down.
Another note is that I hooked it to my truck and plugged in the 7 pin plug and noted a light at the front, that will be handy for hooking and unhooking in the dark will be handy, was on. That makes me think the truck's 12V system was powering that light.
Where is the converter? I have read of people upgrading theirs.
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If you checked voltage directly at the battery terminals, they are severely low. Anything below 11.8 Volts (with no load) is almost totally discharged.
You will want to get some new batteries, because "deep cycle" lead-acid batteries should not be taken down below about 40% State-of-Charge. (That's somewhat above 12.2 volts.) A few can be taken as low as 25%, on a regular basis, but they're a somewhat specialized item. (Trojan and Crown make batteries like that.)
When you install the new batteries, you should almost certainly replace the small "30A" glass fuse and fuse holder which TM installed in your model year. One end of that fuse is held against a spring - the spring is a very thin wire, and it tends to rust. Buy this one to replace it:
https://www.amazon.com/Febrytold-Gau...dp/B08QHKXD5N/
Most of your under-the-tub power unit (the "Load Center") is pretty good (being year 2007, it's a WFCO.) But the converter assembly (the main board and fan) in the bottom did a pretty bad job of charging batteries, basically quitting when the batteries are only about 85% full. (Lead Acid batteries should be kept at virtually 100% charged for as much of their lives as possible - but without overcharging). At very high cost ($250) this customized, USA-built converter section does a nearly perfect job for lead-acid batteries:
https://www.bestconverter.com/PD-465...te-_p_677.html. Lesser but adequate converter section upgrades can be purchased for $50 to $70 less.
(The WildKat is perfect for lead-acid or AGM batteries. GEL can be treated as AGM with nearly perfect results. It also has a setting for "Lithium", which wants to "push" the batteries to 100% all the time. That's actually a bad idea. I have Lithium, and get much better results from the AGM setting, although they're generally only about 93% filled during storage. Although Lead-Acid batteries WANT to be 100% charged all the time, it's bad to store Lithiums that way.)
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When you have the Tow Vehicle ("TV") plugged in, it does provide a limited amount of power to the WFCO power directly tho the load center. This is a somewhat limited, because the wire path from the engine compartment is very long - and the wires are small. If you drive all day with the fridge turned on 12v electric, your Trailer batteries will get dragged down to about 60% before the long distance wiring path back to the TV alternator becomes "more attractive. Solar would prevent that issue.