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Old 09-22-2022, 10:19 AM   #14
Deb Mac
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Join Date: May 2022
Location: Logan Lake, BC, Can
Posts: 216
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I've previously installed by-passes for the pump and water heater. Neither of my rigs had low-point drains, so your only options were blow the water out with compressed air and run the pump till it's dry (which it never really is) and hope you got it all, or pump pink through the system, bypassing the fresh and hot water tanks, or do both.

I know a couple of folks who just blew the water out and then ran the pump dry, and still ended up with a cracked pump head, and I know that most of you probably follow exactly what Bill said - with his additional steps - and have never had a problem.

But I would rather install the by-pass valve to the pump and not take that chance. Case in point, when I cut the line between the tank and the pump to install the valve, about a 1/4 cup of water came down from the pump end. Now that may have just been in the line, and not coming back down from the pump, but just the fact that water came out from a spot that I was hoping was water-less is making me feel much better about installing that valve. It was cheaper ($35) and easier to install the by-pass than it would be to replace a cracked pump, so I just call it insurance.

Like Shane, I also have a standard Thetford flush toilet, and I do need to know I have pink in the flush valve so it doesn't crack over winter.

I won't worry about the water heater. The small amount of water in there won't cause any problems, and I don't need to fill it with 6 gallons of pink! If I get industrious, I might put a valve in there, but my main worry was the pump and the toilet.
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