Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Welcome back! I didn't recognize your new user name, but your old name is familiar to all of us old-timers because of all your great contributions.
One question comes up again and again. How to replace the cabinet air conditioner with a household air conditioner. The big question is how to direct the two air flow paths to get the most out of the unit. I remember that you had devised some sheet metal baffles that would keep the hot air flow in the rear of the unit where it belongs, and not allow it to mix with the cool air flow in the front of the unit. If you still have any of your pictures (and text) from that discussion, they would be eagerly received.
Again, welcome back.
Bill
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Thanks Bill. Great to be back.... wow, that A/C installation was in 2006 or 2007 (I think). I still have all of the pics and would be happy to update the tutorial if anyone is actually interested anymore.
That A/C mod actually worked better than most roof A/C units. Especially because it drew lass than 1,000W and ran on a 2,000W generator with no strain at all.
Having said all that, I think if I were to add A/C to an older unit today, I would use a 12,000BTU mini-split and put the compressor unit on the trailer tongue. Not sure how I would install the inside air handler but I'll bet I would find a way.
I installed a 12,000BTU 110V mini-split in the (600sq ft) living/dining room of our house and we haven't used our central A/C since. Those things are amazing. This summer we had a power outage on the hottest day of the summer and I ran that mini-split A/C with our Honda i2000eu generator for 24-hours with no issue. I even ran it on propane. I don't know why these RV roof A/C units draw so much power.