Quote:
Originally Posted by Civil_War_Buff
Hey gang,
I was thinking about putting velcro on the "soft" panels and the wall to tighten the gap up, has anyone tried this?
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Yes-- I have a bunch of
little velcro pieces attached along all of the top panel edges. Works, but
DON'T DO IT THAT WAY! The standard glue on the back of the pre-glued stuff (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) gets slimy in the heat, and pieces placed on the mock-leather start sliding around and even getting "left behind" when you want to take the bathroom down(stuck on the wall panels).
So, if you do it, spend a little bit of extra money and buy enough to make FULL strips. Even better, don't use the "pre-glued" stuff -- use something more hot-weather resistant. When I have time to re-do mine, I'll probably attach the mock-leather side via sewing next time. I wonder what TM uses at the factory?
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OTOH, it actually
works really well. To complete the seal, you need to shove a couple of carpet-sample pieces (i.e., small "area rugs") under the gap in the doorway to the hall when your're not going through it, TM left about 1/2'' avoid scraping the floor on my vinyl-floored model. (Maybe the standard carpet is tall enough to fill most of this in, but I doubt it-- seems too tall.) Cutting a piece of doorstop weatherstrip to fit would also work down there. The other place to block out is the 3" gap to the back bed: I use a flap of "Easy-Liner non-adhesive shelf liner" from one of the big-box stores (I think it was Lowes). It's permanently attached along the rear folding wall, bed side, and after opening bathroom up I've got another velcro stripe along the TM wall (corner of the bed) to seal it up. It's light tight, too. The TM plastic baffle to the close the room from the kitchen sink area is pretty good in our 2619, and didn't need any mods. That isn't light tight, but because it isn't right on top of the front bed, it's a lot less bothersome anyway.
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Other replies, first about heating/cooling with the batrhoom complete closed up: I see no effect on heating/cooling of the rear sleeping area, really: the A/C vent blows down the hallway, not over the bathroom gaps. The TM gas heater totally doesn't go back there, without doing some actual ducting. Air flow into the rear is fairly poor at all times, from anything except the overhead A/C unit. In cold weather (near freezing, with snowstorms), I just stick in some stuff "insulation snakes" on the underside (the wrap-on fiberglass, not the much lower quality foam tubing) and put on another blanket. But we usually have electrical plugins, and a small
ELECTRICAL!!! space heater does fine.
Second, about humidity: Living in NV and usually staying on the desert side of the Sierra, most of our outings have near-zero humidity. But with the bathroom isolated from the rest of the TM, as ours now is, you can get rid of any unwanted humidity (and chemical smells) REALLY FAST by opening the bathroom window and turning on the little under-the-trailer exhaust fan --- the entire room quickly gets sucked down and out, way faster and more effective than before. Sealing up the room makes that little fan work BETTER.
