[ShrimpBurrito]

To answer some of your questions.....

Originally Posted by Brifla

1. The carbon monoxide and gas sensors weren't on initially when we entered the camper but at some point during walkthrough we noticed both had the solid green light on. Then later the lights were off and never came back on. We wondered if there was some other switch we could have changed that caused these to go on and off.

There is a switch that turns off this combo detector unit, and it gets turned on when the rear bathroom wall is erected. Conversely, it is turned off it is folded.

Originally Posted by Brifla

2. The curtains are missing from 4 of the windows (2 dinette and 2 double bed side windows). Is there somewhere to buy these curtains that slide in the top and bottom of the curtain tracks? If so, where and what's approximate cost?

You can buy them from the factory, but folks here have reported they are pricey in the past -- I think someone just mentioned $500 for a new set for the whole trailer. But I would simply call the factory to get a quote.

Originally Posted by Brifla

3. The rear right scissor jack is bent inward. They offered to bend it back and said it's no big deal. Should I be concerned about metal fatigue from this?

Is it the jack that is just bent, and not the frame? If it's just the jack, I wouldn't worry about -- I would just bend it back. It's purpose is simply to support some weight of the trailer to stabilize it from shaking when you're walking around. It's failure is not catastrophic; your trailer would just shake a bit, and at the point, you'd just buy another one for $50-$100.

Originally Posted by Brifla

4. They said that the trailer bearings are sealed and don't need grease added but I assumed these trailers are similar to my boat trailer and need a grease gun. Is this true and do I simply pop out the rubber insert at the end of each axle and pump some lithium grease in before trailering? I won't have time to get them repacked before trailering 400 miles home and the tires look fine.

The manufacturer says they should be routinely greased, but because folks have had their systems fail and got grease all over the brakes, I don't do this. Instead, I tear down the bearings every other year and repack them. No problems, and I put on alot of miles. My preference would be to get them repacked, since you don't know the history; you could take them to a shop before you get on the road and have them do it for $100. If you don't do that, I would at the very least keep checking them every 10-20 miles until you are confident they are not heating up.

They are not like the Bearing Buddy systems on boats, however -- totally different. It's made by Dexter Axle, and called their "EZ Lube" system. Here's a diagram that shows what it is.

Originally Posted by Brifla

5. Several of the hold down latches were so stiff that they had to be kicked to get them to swing close and lock the trailer down. Is this simply a matter of WD-40 or a minor adjustment?

You definitely should not have to kick them closed. Sounds like they are adjusted too tight. Simple to fix -- simply rotate the clasp to lengthen its reach. When you close them, they should be firmly attached, but definitely not super tight, and certainly not as tight as you describe. You can end up pulling the catch screws out of the wood.

Originally Posted by Brifla

6. There aren't any hoses with the camper (sewer, etc). They said buying a hose package is not very expensive. Is this true? What hoses and outside equipment is necessary that I'm not seeing there?

Hoses are cheap. You'll need a fresh water hose to fill the TM with potable water -- maybe $20-$40, depending on length. They're usually white and are specifically labeled for drinking water, but other than that, look like garden hoses from outward appearances. Lots of them here. You'll also need a sewer hose, which looks like a giant slinky, and a fitting on the end to attach it to the TM. Maybe $30-$50, again depending on length, and also manufacturer hype. Those are here.

Originally Posted by Brifla

7. All of the stove burners and oven had to be lit with a lighter because the ignition switches weren't working. After that they worked fine. The seller says this is common in all older trailers and not a big issue that people bother fixing. Is this true? Any larger problem looming here?

The stoves standard in the TM's do not have spark igniters, and must always be lit with a lighter of some sort. I use a flint lighter, and those stupid butane lighters always die on me, no matter how much I spend on them. You can add the spark igniters as a retrofit, as a few members have done here. Or you buy a $5 flint lighter that lasts 20 years.

Originally Posted by Brifla

8. There are some plastic cover-type pieces (about 3" x 10") on the outside on each side that are missing. They attach with a screw at each end but appear mainly cosmetic. What do they do and do I need them/can I get replacements?

Do they cover the spot where those rectangular tubes attach the shells to the torsion bars underneath? If so, I believe those are factory parts, and they should be able to provide replacements. I think they're just cosmetic.

Originally Posted by Brifla

It needs some TLC (torn screen, dirt, mildew, loose screws, slide adjustments, etc) but appears structurally and mechanically sound aside from these issues. We're just trying to gauge these things that we found.

Sounds great, Brian! The forum is a great resource, so if you need anything along the way, someone will be here to give you a hand. Welcome!

Dave