Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyrv
I would do a little research before you go with that heavy rated WDH.
I would recommend not exceeding 600-800# rated WDH. The stronger the spring bars on the WDH, the more shock loading that will be transferred to your trailer axle and the more risk of over-stressing the trailer when driving on rough roads.
The idea of the WDH is to transfer some of the load from the hitch ball to the front wheels of the TV so that the front wheels are not unloaded by the tongue weight of the trailer. There is no advantage to installing a WDH that will exceed the weight of the load.
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I disagree:
- Heavier bars provide extra adjustment distance which can be helpful for clearance at the attach points on the trailer tongue (each link of the chain provides heavier lift; the lighter bars would need to be set closer to max all the time).
- The 1200# WDH is probably labeled "Up to 1200#". With a heavily cinched up WDH I might think cautiously about going across a sudden steep angle (but then, I think that would likely be a red flag to anybody when towing a trailer in any circumstance). So far, problems with the heavier rated bars exist only in the minds of people who don't use them.
- Gross weights, axle weights, and tongue weights need to be watched. The remedy, when over, is to just carry a bit less (most of us don't need to travel with full water, for example). We think of pickups and vans as big tow vehicles, but the scale numbers people have been posting show that even a modest load in the back can make it exceed the rear axle rating without a WDH. The longer adjustment range of the 1200# bars may be useful in getting the WDH set the way you want it, particularly with longer wheelbase vehicles.
- It's also easy to overload the 14" tires on the 2720's, but a heavier axle and 15" tires should do better. The WDH adds some weight back to the trailer axle, but with a longer lever arm than to the front axle, so less hitch weight gets moved aft than moves forward.
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