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Old 03-26-2003, 02:47 PM   #4
Denny_A
Former TM Owner
 
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Greenville, WI
Posts: 517
Default Re: Fixed Roof Seal Gap Problem.......

Quote:
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DenTed,
I read and reread your message twice and still don't understand exactly what you did. Failing to be able to view a videotape - like the one that Chris suggested you make - I guess that the only way for me to understand your repair procedure is to take my printed copy out to my TM and try to visualize what you did while examining the various parts of the lift mechanism.
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Larry,

You may not have seen the thread named Gap 'Tween Fwd Shell Seal/Aft Roof. I originated it with a question - how do I adjust the roof?

I started this "fixed it" thread so the fix wasn't buried at the end of that thread. Checking thru the many suggestions offered therein may be of assistance.

Here's an attempt to define terms and aid orientation.

A. What done to what components:

White lift arm which supports the doorside, aft corner of the forward shell. Shortened length, causing gap 'tween fluffy seal and aft shell to decrease.

White lift arm which supports the doorside, forward corner of the aft shell. Increased length, causing gap 'tween fluffy seal and aft shell to decrease. I.e; lower shell moved UP toward the fluffy seal

B. Actions accomplished.

Forward/Aft Shell arms: 4 bolts secure arm to torsion bar. Release all 4 bolts so that lift arm can be slid up or down on torsion bar. Done whilst both shells are open. Total adjustment - forward shell arm down 1/4" and a aft shell arm up 1/4". Total RELATIVE motion 1/2";. Movement needed to remove gap = 1/2".

C. Tools Used

Cinder block and bottle jack to support torsion bar.
Scissor jack to support, and allow fine vertical adjustments
2x2 (or 2x4) of hardwood.
Hardplasic headed mallet and shop rag.

D. Method

There is a foot stirrup on each lift arm. When the arm is upright, the rungs are horizontal. I cut a 2x2 to fit under the edge of the lower rung, and supported the bottom of the 2x2 on the scissor jack. Used tie wrap around the 2x2 and the lift arm so that it wouldn't wander. All the bolts were loose, and the torsion bar was prevented from deflecting downward. I lowered the scissor jack 1/4", so that the 2x2 was gapped that amount under the rung. I wrapped the shop rag around the rung and pounded until the gap was closed. Climbed a ladder (to ensure it wasn't an illusion) and noted appropriate results at the seal. It WORKED!

The other arm, being an extension, was easier. Raising the lift arm causes the torsion bar to raise until it bumps against the top of the hole thru which it protrudes. I draped the shoprag over the torsionbar. Used a VERY large adjustable wrench (adjusted to snugly fit around the rag/torsion bar) and pounded on the other end to force the rod down to the bottom of the hole, and repeated. BTW - I can get away with this because I was once a professional metalsmith; from the get-a-bigger-hammer discipline. ;D

There it is; just as foggy as before. In a nutshell.

Denny_A
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