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Old 03-14-2008, 08:41 PM   #5
ShrimpBurrito
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,259
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I got it hooked up, and although I haven't checked it with a multimeter, it seems to be measuring accurately. Overhead lights are be clocked at ~1.25-1.4 amps, which is consistent with another member's readings. And my 6A 3-stage charger is putting out exactly 6A. So it's certainly accurate to at least within a few tenths of an amp.

Interestingly, the fridge consumes 10 amps. Yikes.

Bob - I too put my Link 10 under the sink with the rest of the gauges, but I took a few steps which I hope will eliminate interference from the water heater controls. First, I used wire that was both twisted and shielded for the shunt feeds, and ran a second wire for the other 3 conductors. Coming from underneath the bathroom floor, I also ran the wire on the floor of the cabinet, just on the inside of the cabinet edge, as opposed to up where the water heater switch is, and then up the right side of the cabinet adjacent to the fridge.

I haven't tested the water heater yet, but the thermometer that I also recently installed (which was having problems) no longer gets reset by the water heater switch after I put in a choke core (thanks to Bill's suggestion) and wrapped the probe in foil.

Dave
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2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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