TrailManor Owner's Forum - View Single Post

**rickst29** · 10-22-2023, 10:16 AM

As I was writing this, Bill described your first step perfectly: Verify good pressure from the running tank and through the flex gas supply tube by running the stove or furnace first.

Underneath the refrigerator, a "T" shaped 3- way connector is used to provide propane gas (at pressure) up and into the fridge burner on the vertical leg, while the horizontal path connects between the source pipe (from the front 4-way connector) into another destination segment leading a couple of feet further towards the back of the TM. It then goes up and into the water heater gas valve.

These two connectors are not likely points of failure, and I do not recommend that you disassemble either one. (IIRC, at least is built using flared pipe ends rather than O-rings, and you need s special tool to cut off and re-flare pipe ends if you take it apart. When I replaced my 'under-the-fridge' 3-way "T" with a 2-way straight through connector of the same design, to eliminate the fridge supply line, I had to acquire the tool in order to use a connector of the same type.)

Your gas supply pressure problem is more likely caused by a problem at a regulator valve (on a tank), or at the rotating tank selector switch, or along the flex supply line leading from the selector switch into the input leg of the 4-way distribution connector at the from of the TM.

In my 2619 model, that 4-way distribution connector provides gas pressure into 2 separate copper lines which route along the curb side, those go directly into the cabin heater and the stove as separate lines.

If your cabin heater works AND your stove works, then the problem is "downstream" of the 4-way connector, either along the shared "street side" pipe or at the later 3-way T" connector. Inspect the pipe for damage, either being crushed or pierced.

If you have a compatible gas pressure gauge, you can also test for pressure at the gas valves of the appliances. If not, you should follow the problem determination charts for the two appliances.
- - -
Are you sure that the tank valve is re-opened after ssetting up, and that the tank selector switch points to the opened and still partly filled tank?

10-22-2023, 10:16 AM	#4
rickst29 yes, they hunt lions. Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 1,324	As I was writing this, Bill described your first step perfectly: Verify good pressure from the running tank and through the flex gas supply tube by running the stove or furnace first. Underneath the refrigerator, a "T" shaped 3- way connector is used to provide propane gas (at pressure) up and into the fridge burner on the vertical leg, while the horizontal path connects between the source pipe (from the front 4-way connector) into another destination segment leading a couple of feet further towards the back of the TM. It then goes up and into the water heater gas valve. These two connectors are not likely points of failure, and I do not recommend that you disassemble either one. (IIRC, at least is built using flared pipe ends rather than O-rings, and you need s special tool to cut off and re-flare pipe ends if you take it apart. When I replaced my 'under-the-fridge' 3-way "T" with a 2-way straight through connector of the same design, to eliminate the fridge supply line, I had to acquire the tool in order to use a connector of the same type.) Your gas supply pressure problem is more likely caused by a problem at a regulator valve (on a tank), or at the rotating tank selector switch, or along the flex supply line leading from the selector switch into the input leg of the 4-way distribution connector at the from of the TM. In my 2619 model, that 4-way distribution connector provides gas pressure into 2 separate copper lines which route along the curb side, those go directly into the cabin heater and the stove as separate lines. If your cabin heater works AND your stove works, then the problem is "downstream" of the 4-way connector, either along the shared "street side" pipe or at the later 3-way T" connector. Inspect the pipe for damage, either being crushed or pierced. If you have a compatible gas pressure gauge, you can also test for pressure at the gas valves of the appliances. If not, you should follow the problem determination charts for the two appliances. - - - Are you sure that the tank valve is re-opened after ssetting up, and that the tank selector switch points to the opened and still partly filled tank? __________________ TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 630 watts solar. 450AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor). TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".