[Bill]

Originally Posted by J_Norris

The floor outer frame wood feels and looks very solid when poked with a screwdriver on both the front piece of the wood frame and the street side of the wood frame.

This is great news. Replacing that wood would have been very difficult.

I looked and poked up into the wall where the screws pulled out and that doesn’t appear to be wood at all, there’s a wood-colored piece like a veneer along the bottom surface of the wall, and inside of the pulled out hole it is pretty smooth and white; it’s like gypsum board, but less crumbly than I’d expect from gypsum board (I don’t know much about construction materials).

Your explanation is clear, but I have no idea what it means. Larryjb may have some ideas - he is pretty good at this stuff.

I’ve also attached pictures of the front bumpers; they are pretty worn

They aren't "pretty worn", they are "omigod worn". Worn enough that they might permit some bouncing once you are under way. You need to replace them ASAP. One of our members made replacement out of tire treads picked up beside the road. Others (including me) bought some appropriate rubber material from (I think) Amazon.

Strangely the curbside bumper is much worse than the street side, but the problem of drooping torsion brackets is less pronounced on the curbside.

I'll have to digest this. Perhaps someone else will comment?

I haven’t had trouble with the main latches on the street side, I can put a little downward pressure on the roof with one hand to get them latched. The curbside takes a light foot in the stirrup to close (I can’t tug the roof on that side because of the awning).

Both of these soud just a little bit light, but not enough to cause a catastrophe. I don't think you need to adjust the main latch height. It almost sounds like a previous owner had adjusted the latches much too tight, noticed the problem, and backed them off before selling the trailer.

The upper clip on the front street-side draw-latch has started to pull downward, possibly because its mate is on the torsion bracket.

I'm still trying to figure out what this might signify, if anything. Again, it could be due to shell bouncing. On my TM, when I close my corner latches, they are firm, but they pull the shell down only about 1/8 inch. If the shell bounces, there would be a lot of stress applied to it at the bottom of the bounce. Setting the draw latches too tight has resulted in pulled clips for many folks here.

There is also a tear in the metal inside that I’ve included a picture of. I was wondering if the metal might have been torn by the couch slide being forced in at an angle and if that could have forced the wall detachment from the floor, but that doesn’t seem to relate to the torsion bar bracket.

It will take a while to digest this. I would be looking for other responders.

Dick Hamel had a similar but milder issue that he pm-ed me about. He had it repaired with the help of a good shop and advice from a Trailmanor engineer, I’m hoping that his fix might be useful in this case as well.

If Dick picked up any info from this, listen carefully to him - he is very good, and has kept his TM in very good shape despite it being a little older. His repair shop is also excellent. Unfortunately, it is not particularly close to Flagstaff (maybe 2500 miles?)

I really appreciate the time and thought you all are giving this!

Jodi