[rickst29]

I switched from "Inty" type P10.0 to P100.
And, in editing this post, I show values one degree higher than I started from - a bigger "safety from freezing" factor.
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In section "0089":

Inty = P100 (P10.0 is more precise, but won't take measurements and relay activation at temps above about 48F. Do NOT USE P10.0, you'll never be able to perform an initial cool-down.)

Outy = "1" (Disabled SSR; I'm using the using the "J1" PID Method).

psb = "12" (correction factor for PT-100 probe resting in a water/ice bath. My own thermocouple was off by 12 degrees, yours will have a different correction factor.)

rd = "1" (Cooling, rather than Heating. Important!)

Hy = "0002" (This is the new software, which replaces "Caty" algorithm selection with a number to indicate how close around "SV" you want it to stay. The value "3" does a great job of keeping the Fridge stuck at 35F.
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In section "0036":
Ot = "0190" I set a much longer Control period.
Filt = "1"
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In section "0001": (EDITED)
SV = "0035" (Target temperature)

If your model does not have an explicit setting for "Hy" in section 0089, then it is equal to AH - AL. So you will need to set the following values:

AH = "0036" (Might be important, but the range might actually be controlled by "Hy" above).
AL = "0034" (Might be important, but the range might actually be controlled by "Hy" above).

With these numbers, the system instantly shuts OFF when the temperature fall to the value "34". (That occurs at "34.9", rather than "34.0".) At 36.0 or higher, it turns ON - and stays ON continuously, until it has reached back down to "34.9". It's showing "35", either ON or OFF, more than 95% of the time. (Except after 'Open-Door-And-Looked-Around-For-Stuff' events.)

I removed the factory-original "Cable-TV and wire-phone connector plate", replacing it with a blank plate. (On the TM outside, I removed the factory-original cutout (with the flip-up connectors) and replaced it with my ON/OFF/ON switch for DC. (New note: I have removed my backup wiring; a simple ON/OFF switch would now be sufficient for me.)

Per the wiring diagram, 120VAC can only run when the PID works. The "Green" side of the exterior ON/OFF/ON switch activates PID-controlled DC (the desired mode for driving or roughing it). Inside the TM, the Fridge Selector can be in any position - "OFF" runs DC alone, "Propane" runs the gas heater (using the DC to "top off" the amount of heat with high precision).

I recommend against using the interior switch on "120VAC" with the exterior switch in any position except "OFF" - because you will be running both the AC and DC heaters at full power, and you'll possibly burn the ammonia solution (in particular, it's rust inhibitors). Extra exhaust fans, blowing out from the upper Panel, are almost certainly required to do this safely.

Attached photo shows the PID (and blank plate above), reading 33F - the instant after it shut off power, when my settings were one degree lower than now. For ThePair's configuration and similar, where the PT100 thermocouple is not in the absolutely coldest part of the Fridge, you should use settings even another degree or two higher than my new ones.