What TM projects do you have planned this year?

[Al-n-Sue]

We have threads about where folks are going and what folks do to stay entertained after dark - so I thought it would be good to see what upgrades/projects are planned for this season for your TM. I know I've gotten some good ideas from things others have done. It might be good to include why you are doing the project you are doing and the year and model of your TM - olders models may need "enhancements" that newer models already have.

Here are my project plans:

1. Make a parking place for my TM. I cannot store my trailer permanently at home, and I cannot leave it on the street more than 24 hours. But I CAN park it long term on my property. I need a place off-street to leave it for multiple days so I can work on projects and for preparing for a trip. I've got to raise some ground next to the drive way to create a level parking spot. This could also be construed as yard work. :(
2. Add a shower wand hanger and curtain to line the walls of the shower. I like the mod that was made using a clear shower curtain attached to the back and side walls - giving more space in the shower. Can't remember who did it, but the curtain has a world map on it! :D
3. Using an idea I got from markandanne and from the Elkmont - I want to mount a grill/mesh under the tongue to provide a little storage behind the battery box. I plan to carry leveling blocks in this area to get them out of the back of the TV.

Last year's projects, for any who are interested, were to add a battery cut-off switch and install a cable to the aux plug of the radio to accept an iPOD.

I'll be anxious to see the ingenuity of you TM owners to make your trailers more liveable, convenient, and reliable. ;)

Alan

[ShrimpBurrito]

I too want to get a mesh of some sort welded to the underside of the tongue. I want to carry blocks there as well, but I also plan to mount a 5-pound propane tank there as well. The tricky part of finding a holder for the tank. I'm also in the process of building some shelves for the wardrobe and the triangular cabinet to the right of the A/C.

I also want to get something installed to protect the rear plumbing in case of a blowout, and I want to install a cell phone antenna to the TV antenna mast.

Alan - you may not actually have to do yard work! I park our TM on our driveway, which has a significant incline. To prevent it from knocking on my neighbor's door across the street, I built 2 very large wheel chocks comprised of a 6x6 & a 6x8 stacked on top of each other (bolted & glued together), and cut to the shape of the wheel. There is NO WAY the TM is going to go over the chocks since they are about 11 inches tall. In front of the chocks sits a 10-foot 6x6 that spans the entire width of the trailer. I drilled two 1/2" holes in our 5"-thick concrete driveway and in the 6x6, and I drive foot-long 1/2" bolts through the 6x6 and into the driveway. That way the chocks will never slide. It has even survived a 3.5 earthquake! See attached pic.

BTW, you can get the World Map shower curtain at Target.
http://http://www.target.com/Home-World-Map-Shower-Curtain/dp/B001C4CK4C (http://www.target.com/Home-World-Map-Shower-Curtain/dp/B001C4CK4C)

Dave

[Al-n-Sue]

I also want to get something installed to protect the rear plumbing in case of a blowout,
Alan - you may not actually have to do yard work!
BTW, you can get the World Map shower curtain at Target.
http://http://www.target.com/Home-World-Map-Shower-Curtain/dp/B001C4CK4C (http://www.target.com/Home-World-Map-Shower-Curtain/dp/B001C4CK4C)

Dave
I thought it was you who did the shower curtain, but in the middle of a post, I couldn't go back and look without losing what I was doing. At least I don't know how. Thanks for the link to Target - my wife liked the world map idea as well.

Actually, my levelling project is a side to side issue. I have adequate space to park the TM between the driveway and the fence, but the ground slopes down (about 2 feet left to right) from the drive to the fence line for adequate drainage. The slope is too much for me to open the TM, otherwise if I just wanted to park it would not be an issue. Parking in the drive is not a good option since we park our cars in the garage. Basically I have to move the landscaping rocks out of the way, add adequate sand to create the height to level the TM and still have good drainage, then recover with rocks.

Protecting the sewer drains from blowout debris is also a project I forgot about. I found some heavy duty truck mud flaps at a trailer supply store that I think I can just rivet on the frame support right behind the wheel.

Already my thread has paid dividends! :D
Alan

[PopBeavers]

My big project is not exactly a TM project. We keep the TM in the garage. The ATV trailer is in the side yard.

To get the ATV trailer in the side yard I have to push it back from the sidewalk by hand, because I only have one inch of clearance on each side. I will not use my truck with that tight of a tolerance.

Right now I have to put one tire in the dirt/mud now empty and dead flower bed and the other wheel on the lawn for part of the way.

I need something that will not be muddy. I do not want ugly concrete or anything else solid. I have considered gold fine or granite fine, but DW says that is ugly.

I am presently considering using manufactured paving stones. Sorta like artificial flagstone. I would first install about 4 inches of base rock, followed by one inch of sand with the pavers on top. The gap between the stones would be filled with topsoil and then plant dichondra or baby tears etc.

I will never drive the truck on it, but the big ATV weighs about 800 pounds. I'm not sure what the weight of the empty trailer is. The ATVs go in first, then the empty trailer behind it.

I should climb under the TM and see what needs to happen regarding rust on the frame.

I might add an accessible aux jack to the current radio. I don't have an MP3 player, but my kids do, and they are a little tired of the Beatles CDs that I keep playing. I have no idea why they feel that way.

I should try to figure out how to repair the formica on the edge.

I would like to add a sprayer to the kitchen sink, so that DW and DD can shampoo their hair when we can not afford the water for daily showers. The easiest solution might be to replace the faucet with one that has a built in sprayer.

The stove top grate no longer is locked in place. I liked it best when the rear two legs were locked in but the front two were free. This kept the grate from bouncing off but still allowed lifting the front part way for cleaning.

Electric start for the oven would mean that DW no longer calls me in to light the oven pilot.

Lid on the toilet is cracked and should be replaced.

Add an LED night light to the existing bathroom fluorescent. That should be low enough in power consumption that I can leave it on all night, but bright enough to be able to see what needs to be seen.

The infamous "shorten" the shower curtain mod.

That list is long enough that I probably won't finish it all. I have no doubt that something more important will show up when I least expect it.

[countrygirl]

Last year we camped at Silver River State Park. The camp site was a pull off/over cresent shape. Apparently this was the first time we had the TM with the majority of the windows getting a lot of direct sun light...and it was really hot in the camper even with turning the ac back on after we returned from an outing.

At work we have roller shades in one building that really are just very heavy screens on a roller and they do an amazing job of keeping the building cooler with no glare....and yet you can see out through the windows very well. So last year I made trips to ACE, Lowe's and and Home Depot both on line and in person looking for a roll of heavy screen and could not locate it. Truth is...I once had some of this type screen that I bought on a roll 36 inch wide...but cut it into long strips when I attempted to make a screen door....and no I can't remember where I got it! (I did make the screen door and it worked okay but I hated it so I bought a D and S screen door) I did look on line at J.C. Penney's and they had these roller shades but they were pricey. I did order a roller shade that was on clearance....for 10.00 and free shipping and it is suppose to reduce glare/heat something like 90 per cent... it is made out of some type of thin blue plastic type stuff. So my wild idea is to cut it to the size of a window...and then attempt to attach it above the window with some of those plastic framing strips that I just bought at Ace hardware last week. Don't laugh ...it just might work. ;)

Last month I was reading one of those on line RV magazines and I found the coolest products for doing the same thing. One week I found an ad for a way to attach the same type of sun/heat blocking screen to the outside of the camper...and the next week I read another online RV magazine ad for an option to attach this same type of screen to the inside of the camper. Both of these options were so simple it was scary...and someone it going to get rich.

BTW my windows in the TM came with the factory tint.

[ShrimpBurrito]

At work we have roller shades in one building that really are just very heavy screens on a roller and they do an amazing job of keeping the building cooler with no glare....and yet you can see out through the windows very well.

That stuff is called "shade cloth", or at least that matches your description, and can be found at landscaping supply houses. You buy it according to how might light absorption you want, i.e. 50%, 70%, etc.

Dave

[Bluegrass]

I am presently considering using manufactured paving stones. Sorta like artificial flagstone. I would first install about 4 inches of base rock, followed by one inch of sand with the pavers on top. The gap between the stones would be filled with topsoil and then plant dichondra or baby tears etc.


I used to keep my boat on a concrete pad on the side of the house but had to back it and the truck over my lawn which made both ruts and a mess, especially if the lawn was wet. My solution was to use those cement decorative blocks which I sunk into the grass so that the top was just flush with the lawn surface. Over time the lawn grew over the blocks but they provided a firm enough surface underneath that I could back the boat over them without damaging the lawn. You could hardly tell that they were there.

[countrygirl]

Thanks Dave...I will look there for it.

[ragmopp]

I also want to get something installed to protect the rear plumbing in case of a blowout, and I want to install a cell phone antenna to the TV antenna mast.

Dave,

Would a antenna actually boost the reception on a cell phone? And if so where do you get them?

Mike Anderson

[Bill]

Mike -

The TM has a metal skin, so a cell phone's performance inside is reduced, to say the least. An outside antenna would certainly help. And a good antenna, with a cable that is not too long, would improve performance above what you get outside.

However, your cell phone must be equipped with an external antenna connector, and I didn't realize that very many were. I have no confidence whatever on those proximity couplers that you just put near the phone.

Bill

[ShrimpBurrito]

Mike,

Bill is right, of course. Not only should a larger external antenna help with signal inside the TM, it should also give a better signal outside the TM just by virtue of it being larger than the phone's internal antenna.

There are several different brands I've come across....Wilson Electronics is probably the largest/most popular brand, but I'm also checking out Cyfre's antenna. (http://www.cyfreadapters.com/store/product.php?productid=16185&cat=263&page=1). They claim to have higher gain, but antenna and amplifier manufacturers' self-reported dBi claims have to be taken with a grain of salt. Even higher gain yet, although a much larger antenna, is on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/15dBi-Magnetic-Mount-External-Booster-Antenna-TNC-FME_W0QQitemZ130252072032).

So I'm not sure what I'm going to get yet....and perhaps Bill can chime in. The TM roof provides a nice ground plane, so I don't need an antenna with one built-in. I want to get one to allow for greater coverage when we are out in the sticks, which is where we usually camp. We sometimes work out there and greater coverage would be a big help, both for voice and data.

There are often times hills and trees around, as opposed to an open plain, and I've read a lower gain antenna (9-10 dBi) can be more effective than a higher gain antenna (15+dBi) because it has an RF field higher in the vertical plane.

And yes, lots of phones these days have external ports for antennas. On the 2 phones we have, you would not notice them unless you were REALLY looking for them because they are covered by small silicone plugs that are the same color as the phone itself. The plugs are maybe 3/16" to 1/4" in diameter.

I agree that the passive couplers are not ideal, and it doesn't make any sense to use one if you are going through the effort to connect a larger antenna.

I'll make a separate thread about the antenna install when I get it up.

Dave

[Wavery]

We want to replace that ugly, nasty carpet with simulated wood linoleum. Someone posted a pic that they had done and my wife hasn't stopped talking about it since I showed it to her.

The problem is, hardly anyone (around here) carries lino anymore. Not even HomeDepot. What little lino that we can find is little squares. We are on a quest......:p

I really don't want to do laminate because of the possibility of water intrusion. I install a lot of laminate in my apt building. It gets badly damaged whenever there's a plumbing leak or someone over-flows their toilet (the joys of apt management).

On the other hand, laminate would be so easy to replace, if it gets damaged, that it may be worth it. Then there's still the weight issue....:rolleyes:

[ThePair]

We want to replace that ugly, nasty carpet with simulated wood linoleum. Someone posted a pic that they had done and my wife hasn't stopped talking about it since I showed it to her.

The problem is, hardly anyone (around here) carries lino anymore. Not even HomeDepot. What little lino that we can find is little squares. We are on a quest......:p

I really don't want to do laminate because of the possibility of water intrusion. I install a lot of laminate in my apt building. It gets badly damaged whenever there's a plumbing leak or someone over-flows their toilet (the joys of apt management).

On the other hand, laminate would be so easy to replace, if it gets damaged, that it may be worth it. Then there's still the weight issue....:rolleyes:

Amtico?

It's available, it's completely water-damage proof, it looks just like wood, and it comes in strips like wood flooring. It's very thin, too, so it shouldn't weigh all that much more than lino or laminate, I would think.

I have Amtico flooring in my basement, and unless I tell them, no one who sees it thinks it's anything other than a nice, hardwood floor. ;)

Marc

[ragmopp]

Thanks Bill, Dave....It seems my mobile does not have a external antenna...(I even called Verizon)....I really needed it for home use as I live in a hard to reach mobile area. I have also looked at various amplifiers and that is way too many $$$....

Mike

[B_and_D]

We've got several projects.

Remove the anode rod from the water heater and replace.

New tires.

Tear out carpet and replace with?

Repaint the spare tire cover on the rear bumper that had an eagle decal on it that peeled off with something cool (like a batman symbol or something random...any ideas?). Trees would be fine too. We've thought about putting a picture of the TM open on it too.

Oh yes, the things that are leaking: Under the sink somewhere (it leaked for a bit on the last trip but then stopped?); the outside drain valves that apparently got frozen this winter when the temps got down to 25 or so, and maybe the base of the toilet. I bought the valves and carried them around in my purse for a month or so. I forget where I put them. Hopefully they're inside the TM.

Repair the damage from the blowout we had in January. This can wait, it's not that bad.

I don't want to think about it.

I just want to go camping.

I guess it will be the tires first, then the valves, and then the sink. The rest of it can wait.

:confused:

[ShrimpBurrito]

That Amtico stuff looks like an excellent choice. I heard of someone else put some down and they love it. Weight would be the only question.

B and D - Thanks for reminding me about the anode rod. Also, check the valve stems in the faucet for a leak. I had mine leak, and since I wasn't able to find replacement stems among the 2 dozen at the hardware store, I found some replacement washers that happened to be the right size, and that solved the problem.

http://www.thealzheimerspouse.com/images/Smiley-face-779143.gif

Dave

[Mccooleys]

Where do I start??? Since we bought our 2004 2720SD so late last year we couldn't test the plumbing system. The hot water heater doesn't have an anode rod installed. That will be the first thing that I do. I did get to take the carpet out with two electric heaters running. I will install a vinyl floor. That will be the first thing that I do. I received a CD/Radio player with a MP3/XM Radio jack for Christmas so I want to install that first. Wait....I have too many firsts! I need to prioritize.:eek:
We did dry clean the cushion covers and replace the foam with extra firm this winter. They turned out great. I installed wooden pegs in the table to keep it aligned when the extension is used.
We have several small repairs, a rip in the laminate, a shelf under the bathroom sink that needs repaired, and one of the rear lights just stopped working, it's not a burned out bulb, I tried that. I hope that it's a ground problem.
Let me see...install a bicycle hitch and an above sink cabinet. Oh!, and go camping!
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions, help, ideas and encouragement. This forum is an amazing tool!

Bob & Sarah:new_newbi
2004 2720SD
2008 Silverado

[rumbleweed]

Will be adding a water tank filling capability when closed to my 2720SL. I have already added a deck plate clean-out to the top of the tank so I can get inside the tank to work and clean. I plan to add two 1/2" 90 degree thru-hull boat fittings on the side of the tank close to the top. These will connect to1/2 flex water line tubing that will then go straight down through the floor. One will then connect to another 90 degree fitting then out to the side edge of the TM where it will be terminated with a female garden hose fitting ( with a cap). The other will extend down about 2" below the floor as the overflow. Plan to put a shut off valve on this one. A fresh water hose can then be connected to the female connector and water added until it begins to run out the overflow line. This way the tank can be filled at or near the destination with the TM closed. Will post pictures when it is done.

[my toys]

Hey Countrygirl,
How did the articles tell you to attach the shade cloth to the inside/outside of the windows?

[countrygirl]

I have figured out after taking a good look I can not use the framing strips at the windows there is not enough room. It might work if I adjusted the valance but I am too lazy for that. On line at one web site they use suction cups to mount it on the inside of the camper and at another site they use a snap to attach it to the outside of the RV. I like the snap better but my dh does not want the shade cloth on the outside. They have a version of the snap especially for RVS...where they glue on a sort of a peel and stick on with a 3 day wait for 100 percent cure.

http://www.rvquickshades.com/suction_cups.html

http://www.ezsnapdirect.com/RV-Shades

Other projects...

Tom bought an Optima battery on Thursday and so far likes it a lot more.

We plan to replace some bolts, washers and nuts with stainless steel ones hopefully next week.

[PopBeavers]

For filling the water tank while closed, it is possible to pump water in through the tank drain valve. It might take awhile because of the size, but it does work, and you don't have to go cutting holes anywhere.

[countrygirl]

Oh that reminds me I bought one of the blue 7 gallon water jugs from Walmart a couple of weeks ago and also bought one of the hand bilge bumps from Boaters World.

[Wavery]

Amtico?

It's available, it's completely water-damage proof, it looks just like wood, and it comes in strips like wood flooring. It's very thin, too, so it shouldn't weigh all that much more than lino or laminate, I would think.

I have Amtico flooring in my basement, and unless I tell them, no one who sees it thinks it's anything other than a nice, hardwood floor. ;)

Marc

I looked up the Amtico and when I was in Lowe's the other day, I saw something similar. It was called "Cryntel". It comes in 4 1/2" x 36" self adhesive vinyl planks. It was $33 for a box of 20 planks. I bought 2- boxes and that was more than enough for the job.

I tore out the old carpet and lino and removed the 150 staples that held the carpet down........I'll tell ya..If I were the guy that works at the factory, stapling those carpets in, I'd take a different route home every day......:new_cussi

Anyway, 8 hours after I opened the trailer, this is what I have:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/wkavery/NewFloor011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/wkavery/NewFloor010.jpg

It was so easy to do that I didn't even have to put the mouldings back in, everything butts up perfectly....no gaps anywhere...

[countrygirl]

Nice job!

[Mccooleys]

Wow! Your TM looks great. I need to go look at Cryntel Flooring. It sounds much easier to install than a one-piece vinyl floor. I pulled my carpet and removed hundreds of staples, like you, and plan on replacing my floor this spring. Thanks for the pictures.

[Leslie & Nick]

That new floor looks great! :)You'll like that much better than the carpet. I installed a 'floating' laminate floor in our 2619 a few years ago, but the self adhesive strips sound much easier, and the finished floor probably does not weigh as much.

[ThePair]

Very nice!

[countrygirl]

A project that we are currently looking into is something we saw in an article in Trailer Life Magazine. The article is about a product on the market to enable Honda Generators to have an extra gas tank with a 6 gallon capacity. They used a six gallon marine gas tank for this.

This is a really cool set up. Problem is we have a Yamaha Generator and do not know if the gas cap for this will fit our generator. We also wonder could someone created a version of this him or her self???

In case you don't get the Trailer Life Magazine here is a link to the website listed in the magazine: http://www.vmsales.com/New_Images___Text_Layout_1.html

Well as I typed this while at work...my dh called the company that produces the new cap for the Honda Generator and the fellow that he talked to said that they have tried to create this same thing for the Yamaha Generator ...with no luck. It appears to have something to do with how the generators draw the gas up into the generator itself.

They are planning to keep working on this possibility for Yamaha generators ...perhaps as early as late this week they will make another attempt.

Maybe some of the wonderful engineers on this site can figure out how to do this!

[ShrimpBurrito]

The article is about a product on the market to enable Honda Generators to have an extra gas tank with a 6 gallon capacity. They used a six gallon marine gas tank for this.

This is a really cool set up. Problem is we have a Yamaha Generator and do not know if the gas cap for this will fit our generator. We also wonder could someone created a version of this him or her self???

countrygirl - You can easily make one of your own. If you can't find a generic gas tank cap that will fit your Yamaha, just order one specifically for it at a dealer or on eBay. You cannot use your existing cap because you have to drill a hole in it.

Mine cost about $100 in parts, but $40 of that was for a stainless steel quick-disconnect fuel fitting between the hose and the cap. The one you referenced does not have that, and instead has a $2 elbow. So there are ways to cut costs if you want. But the quick disconnect is nice because you can disconnect the hose while screwing/unscrewing the cap on the generator. Otherwise, you have to twirl the hose around in circles. The quick disconnect also seals on both ends when disconnected.

Check out post #8 of this thread:
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7393

Dave

[countrygirl]

Thanks Dave...I printed out the info...I wondered how I missed this thread...but it was right after my last chemo treatment and I was not on line much then. I am so glad that I posted about the article.....did not have a clue that it would be so easy! Thanks again!

[ShrimpBurrito]

My pleasure. If you do make one, be sure the vent is open on the aux tank during operation. Also, in case it isn't obvious, gas comes out of the aux tank first, and when it's empty, it will start sucking fuel from the tank on board the genny.

Dave

[Wavery]

That new floor looks great! :)You'll like that much better than the carpet. I installed a 'floating' laminate floor in our 2619 a few years ago, but the self adhesive strips sound much easier, and the finished floor probably does not weigh as much.

Thanks, this product looks and feels like real hardwood but it's really vinyl.. I would defy anyone to tell the difference. You can see and feel the wood grain.

I was amazed at how easy it is to work with. Just score the surface with a razor knife and bend it back on itself. Perfectly straight cut every time.

[markandanne]

Somewhere on-line my wife found a reference to a difference in the way the Honda and Yamaha generators draw gas; the Honda supposedly uses a pump and the Yamaha does not. Maybe it's gravity feed somehow or maybe it's just a much weaker pump, I don't know. The comment was that the Honda can have an extended tank like this because it's fuel pump's vacuum draws in the gas from the extra tank, but that the Yamaha needs an auxillery pump.

I do not know if any of that is true, but it might back up the company's claim that they haven't been able to get the Yamaha to work that way yet. I haven't looked at my Yamaha 2400 yet to see if any of that makes sense. Anne did find on another website an even more expensive auxillery tank with it's own pump for roughly $180, but I have no clue how it regulates the pump.

I also saw a reference to a home-built auxillery tank where they stacked the tank somehow over the generator so that it was somehow gravity fed. That might work if you use the drilled out gas cap as the input to keep it all from leaking or overflowing. And that's *if* the pumpless description is accurate.

It would be really cool to basically multiply the 1.6 gal run-time by 5 with a 6 gal tank!

p.s. I just saw another reference on rv.net claiming that the Honda has the air vent in the gas cap instead of the tank, so this allows the easy modification to the cap which keeps the vacuum through the system to the extended tank. It's possible that the difference is that the Yamaha may have a vented tank and a ventless gas cap. If this is so, then the vent would have to be obstructed to create the required vacuum. I'm wildly speculating here - I need to drag the generator out and look at it to see if I can find a fuel pump, or to see if I can find an obvious vent in the cap or the tank.

Mark

[PopBeavers]

Because of recent comments, I might investigate a hard start capacitor for the a/c.