Anode Rod

I recently winterized my TM 2619.  When I drained the Suburban brand water heater I found that the alumimum anode rod had deteriorated significantly.  It needs to be replaced before charging the heater next spring.  Does anyone know where I can obtain a replacement part?  My manual states that the rod should be replaced annually.  If you have replaced the rod in your TM and know of a general supplier, I would appreciate a response.  Thanks.  

Try www.campingworld.com or your local RV supply store.  It's not an unusual item, so you shouldn't have any trouble finding one.

[hal]

I am curious, just how many people had changed this rod?  Did they need to or was it merely a maintenance matter.  Do you get at it from outside or inside the trailer?

Hal

Trainguy, thanks for the response.  I found the replacement aluminum anode rod for $7.99 at Camping World.  I just ordered two, so I will have a replacement.  The anode rod protects the water heater from corrosion by attracting corrosive elements in the water.  Apparently, they attack the anode rod rather than the interior of the heater.  According to the manufacturer of my heater (Suburban) they are to be checked every three months and replaced annually.  Thanks for the information.  I appreciate it.

Ed

Hal

The anode rod is removed from the outside of the TM.  You remove the cover to the water heater and the rod is unscrewed from the bottom of the tank.  It primarily serves as the drain plug for the Suburban water heater.  An aluminum anode rod is built into the plug.  It is easy to get to for checking and replacement.  I think it took a regular 1 1/16 inch socket to remove.  You may want to check it if you have this type of water heater.

Ed

[arknoah]

Our problem this year was that the rod wouldn't come out, and I didn't want to force it.  When I took the trailer to get it winterized, they had the right tool and socket to take it out easily.  We decided to get a new rod even though it wasn't completely done because of the low cost and to offer maximum protection next season in case we encounter really bad water in our travels that eats away at the rod.  It seems like a really small investment for that purpose.  

Thanks for the maintenance suggestion about every three months -- its good to have a standard to use.

F. J. & Ellen

My Suburban Water Heater Instruction manual states: `Under normal use, the anode rod will deteriorate and because of this, we recommend it be replaced yearly.' For sake of discussion, I wonder what they mean by `normal use'?
After our first year, used a total of 20 days or so, I pulled the anode and showed it to our TM dealer. They said the rod can be used until there is little sacrificial metal remaining leaving only the `core' of the rod. Since ours has plenty of sacrificial metal I plan to keep using it even though I also bought a new one from Camping World.
Therefore, I suggest that changing the anode every year is one of the cheapest things you can do and it won't hurt anything but it may not be necessary if you only use the TM `periodically' like we do.

Dick_B

Where can I see a picture of a 'good' and 'spent' rod?

When I tried to decipher my Suburban manual, I thought it was on the inside, under the sink.  Didn't realize the drain plug was also the rod.

Mine looked like just a drain plug.  (1995 3023).

[arknoah]

Can't answer your question about a picture, Dan.  When I got my trailer winterized last year, the guy told me that I could choose to purchase either a new rod, or just get a drain plug -- my choice.  Since my rod had deteriorated quite a bit in only one year, I decided to opt for the new rod.  

I see the rod lots of times, since I tend to use the hot water heater on electric power rather than propane, and the only way to tuen that on is to open the outside door by the heater and flip the switch, which puts me inches away from the anode rod.

[RickNewcomb]

I replaced my Anode three weeks ago after three seasons. There was a signicant amount of corrosion. Fortunately, I hadn't thrown it away yet. Tomorrow, I will get a friend with a digital camera to take a picture of it and post it here.

After looking at the extent of the corrosion, I'm going to replace it after two seasons.

Also, I stuck my finger in the drain hole after removing the anode and I could feel a lot of sandy grit on the bottom of the tank. :o  So, I hooked a garden hose to the city water input and turn on the water with the anode removed. This flushed a lot of the sediment from the tank.

I'm not sure if the sediment came from the campground water supplies or the corrosion of the anode or both. My hunch is both. ???

[RickNewcomb]

Picture1 of corroded anode rod ...

[RickNewcomb]

Picture2 of corroded anode rod ...

Thanks.  I'm going to order a new rod tonight  :)

[RickNewcomb]

I got my new anode from Camping World. The instruction that came with the anode referenced the wrong socket size. I didn't have a socket set large enough for the referenced socket size. So, I had to buy one. Because I used the instructions I ended up buying the wrong size, I then had to return to the hardware store with the new anode to get the correct size socket.

Hopefully this will save you an unnecessary trip to the store.

The exact same thing happened to me in Custer, SD.  But I didn't feel like driving back to Rapid City to return the part, so I still have in the van!  Frustrating, but I got over it!

What is the socket size?  It looks to be about 1 1/16".

Yes, it requires a 1-1/16 socket.  I pulled mine out last weekend.  This is season number 3 for us, but our anode showed only minor deterioration.  I re-installed the same original one, (don't forget you'll need pipe dope), but bought a spare anode ($9) at our local camper dealer for the next time I check it.

We're anxious for our first outing!  Our first trip of this season is in 2 weeks with the Central Northeast Chapter of the TrailBlazers in Geneva, Ohio.  Can't wait! ;D

[DancinCampers]

Good day all,

A month ago I wouldn't have known what an anode rod was.

We purchaed our unit last month, & one of the first things I did was pull the rod.  I think it was original.

Thanks to this forum I have replaced it, along with flushing out the hot water heater.

Thanks all,

Dan

Now that the season is pretty much over, I decided to get back to my anode.  Contrary to popular opinion, on our 1995 Model 3023 it is on the INSIDE, under the sink.  The sink drain PVC drain pipe makes it a bit awkard to access, but I folded down the bathroom wall and could get reasonable access with a breaker bar.  Once it broke free, it came out without much trouble.

Since we bought the 3023 used, I have no idea if it was the original rod, but it looks a bit more corroded than the pictures posted earlier.

I too had purchased the replacement from Camping World.  Just noticed that it included the white plastic tape to wrap the thread with.

Before installing the new rod, I plan to take some photos for future reference.   I had a difficult time locating the rod.  Must be the newer units have it in the drain plug location, which is far easier to access.

Below is the e-mail reply I received from Suburban Manufacturing when I inquired:

"You should check and replace your anode on a routine basis.

You have correctly located the anode. If the anode has not been removed in a while it may take additional force to loosen and remove it. You may want to use a breaker bar and it may require you to add a piece of pipe to it as a "cheater" bar.

When you reinstall the  one, be sure to use Teflon tape and you may want to use some vegetable oil on the threads to make it easier to remove next time. If you
use pipe sealant compound, please be use it is approved for potable water."

[arknoah]

Dan,

Wish I'd known about the tape and oil tip before I started this season.  We're heading out for the final time this weekend, and I hope I'll be able to get that sucker out!

[doonboggle]

Have read all the postings on the anode rod problems; in reaction to my 'new' problem. This morning, took the one out of the used unit (1998) we recently purchased. One immediate conclusion ... it ain't been replaced since new. In getting it out, the stuff on the rod itself had mostly been eaten away, with most of it being on the bottom of the tank. Used water hose and high power squirt to assist in cleaning out, etc.. Will order new rod immediately.

But, question is ... should I do anything else. Can't see inside the tank but presume there is 'stuff' on the sidewalls, floor, etc.. Read postings where others have flushed out with bleach and other stuff; but don't know if that solves the perceived problem of a buildup on the walls.

Is there a compound one can put directly into the tank ... and if so, how does one do this? Is disconnecting the pump and putting it's inlet into a 'jug' or whatever the only way? Would hate to have to fill the water tank just to get 6 gallons to the hw heater.

Or, second thought ... should I simply put the new rod in and 'fagetabotit'? The heater seems to work ok for the short time we've used it by the way ... but just don't want to screw it up for future usage.

[Gwenzilla]

I am curious ... we always drain the water heater after every trip (all the low point drains), so the anode rod in our newer TM is only submersed in water a few days a month at best, probably less than 25 days a year. Am I to assume that an anode rod will be significantly sacraficed in a year with only that much exposure to water?

[Civil_War_Buff]

I am curious ... we always drain the water heater after every trip (all the low point drains), so the anode rod in our newer TM is only submersed in water a few days a month at best, probably less than 25 days a year. Am I to assume that an anode rod will be significantly sacraficed in a year with only that much exposure to water?



Wait a minute, those drains DO NOT DRAIN THE WATER HEATER! If they did however, you will not have any appreciable deterioration on an anode rod not immersed. One thing I miss from my Coleman was the ability to drain the water heater without having to open the unit up. Maybe TrailManor can add an aux drain like Fleetwood did on the Coleman models.

Not only does it keep the anode intact longer, it will virtually eliminate the sulphur smell that I end up with most of the time.

The only "caution" that needs to be mentioned is, if you leave the electric element on all the time like I do, then a drained tank must be refilled BEFORE plugging the trailer into shore power (unless of course you turn the switch off when you drain the tank), then you just have to remember to turn it back on when the tank is filled.

Larry

[mjlaupp]

Tex,
I get the same result when opening all of the drains. The front outboard drain is used to empty the water pump and water heater.
MJL

[Civil_War_Buff]

I have opened all of the drains and the water heater was left untouched....I wonder if there is a blockage or something else wrong with mine???????

I have one of those flush wands, and I use it every spring.

Thanks for the info, I will check it again when I get home though, maybe I didn't break the vacuum and that's why it didn't drain. I sure hope that it works, that would make me very happy if it does.

Larry

[doonboggle]

To clarify the issue whether or not the 4 drain petcocks of the TM also drains the hw heater, I posed the question to Ed Lytle at the factory in Tennessee. Here is my question ... and his response....


QUESTION:

The question is.....does the 'low point' drains in the TM, believe there are 4 'petcocks', also drain the hw heater.

RESPONSE:

Yes.

You open ALL your inside valves then open the 4 outside drain valves and that drains you system including the hot water tank and fresh water tank.

Ed

[RockyMtnRay]

Thanks for the info, I will check it again when I get home though, maybe I didn't break the vacuum and that's why it didn't drain. I sure hope that it works, that would make me very happy if it does.

Larry
Yeah, the key is breaking the vacuum by opening one or more of the interior hot water valves. When departing a campsite, I always get a lot of hot/warm water draining (easily the 6 gallons of the water heater) when I open the forward drain with the interior hot water valves open. It usually takes at least 10 minutes before the warm water stops pouring out. After returning home with that drain open on the last trip of the season, I remove the anode rod for inspection and always find the water heater to be completely empty...no residual water left.

[RockyMtnRay]

I am curious ... we always drain the water heater after every trip (all the low point drains), so the anode rod in our newer TM is only submersed in water a few days a month at best, probably less than 25 days a year. Am I to assume that an anode rod will be significantly sacraficed in a year with only that much exposure to water?

After two seasons of that level of usage (hot water tank always drained before starting home), I found noticeable erosion of the anode rod but by no means was it heavily sacrificed. I felt there was more than enough left to use it for a third season. Will check mine in the spring to see if I need to replace it before my fourth season.

[Civil_War_Buff]

Yeah, the key is breaking the vacuum by opening one or more of the interior hot water valves. When departing a campsite, I always get a lot of hot/warm water draining (easily the 6 gallons of the water heater) when I open the forward drain with the interior hot water valves open. It usually takes at least 10 minutes before the warm water stops pouring out. After returning home with that drain open on the last trip of the season, I remove the anode rod for inspection and always find the water heater to be completely empty...no residual water left.


When I got home I opened the forward most valve (which is a 1/4 turn valve) and opened the rear 1/4 turn valve and the water ran out from the front valve for approx. 10 minutes. There isn't enough room to open the trailer in my driveway without hitching up and moving the TM forward (B&D know what I'm talking about), so I didn't open a hot water faucet, hopefully I didn't need to. Anyhow I noted the white residue that the anode rod puts off was in the water that was draining, so I am pretty sure that the water heater was the source of the water. I noticed that the other valves were shut off type (like under my bathroom sink), so I figure they are for the main water tank.

Anyhow, thanks everyone, that makes me feel a lot better knowing that I won't have to deal with the sulphur smell next time I take the TM out.

Larry

[doonboggle]

Sure would be nice though if they had left some sort of way to get all the gunk out of such a small drain hole. Have used a small hose, with high pressure water, inside it over and over and over ... and still have stuff in there ... likely stuck to the walls or bottom.

[Gwenzilla]

Thanks everyone for the info on the anode rod and reassuring me that the hot water tank is indeed drained by the low point drains. This website and all the great people here save the day again!

[timthetoolman]

Sure would be nice though if they had left some sort of way to get all the gunk out of such a small drain hole. Have used a small hose, with high pressure water, inside it over and over and over ... and still have stuff in there ... likely stuck to the walls or bottom.

Doonboggle,

I haven't even picked up my TM yet, but I do know a lot about sacrificial anodes.

The gunk to which you refer is probably calcium deposits. This comes from the water, not the anode. Any mild acid (vinegar, citric acid, etc.) will dissolve this gunk and it should then flow out easily. Just make sure to really rinse out the tank afterwards to remove the acid used. DO NOT USE any kind of chemical acid (hydrochloric, sulfuric, etc.) for this as those will dissolve metals as well and are TOXIC to us peoples. :eek:

Good luck!

[Bill]

Tim -

When I took up a seasonal residence here in Arizona, I was appalled at the mineral content of the water. It is full of minerals, and in my house, the minerals had built up a thick crust on, and in, the inside of the pipes, the shower head, the water heater ... the list goes on and on. What a mess.

Optimist that I was, I bought a gallon of CLR and dipped the clogged shower head in it as advertised. No result. So I soaked the shower head in it overnight. And then for a week. Nothing. Just as clogged as before.

CLR is expensive. Even more so since it doesn't work. I would love to find that a gallon of cheap grocery store white vinegar will clear out some of the buildup. I think this what you are tallking about for the TM water heater. I would be glad to disconnect the water heater, fill it with vinegar (diluted or not), and then flush the crud away. Does this really work?

Bill

[hal]

Try soaking it for three days or longer. I know that's a long time to go without a shower but it looks so new if you are patient.

Hal

[Bill]

Hal -

As I mentioned, I soaked it for a week. What I didn't mention was that I also tried heating the CLR a bit - outside. Still nothing. I finally threw away all three shower heads in my house and replaced them. And I bought a water-softening system, as has everyone else here in the southwest!

What I am really asking is whether anyone has had personal experience with vinegar, as opposed to urban legend?

Bill

[Steverino]

On our '99 2720, I found that when I pulled the rod to check it, water did come out of the heater. I had previously drained the entire system with the 4 low point drains. The heater was mostly drained from that, but there WAS some residual flow - maybe 3 cups??. Our heater is gas only and does not appear to have any drain method other than pulling the anode.

FWIW...

Steve

[Bill]

You're right, there is no drain other than the low-point drains and the anode rod opening. But I don't believe that such a small amount of water will hurt anything, even during long-term storage.

Are you concerned about freezing? Since it is down in the curved part of the tank, it will be able to expand as it freezes, so nothing will break.

Are you worried about calcium build-up? Yes, if the water is hard (mineral-laden), some of the calcium may leech out onto the tank walls. But such a small amount of water doesn't contain very much in the way of minerals, so the buildup during storage will be negligibly small.

Are you worried about funny critters growing in the stagnant water? Yes, that is real. As described in the manual, you might flush the system with bleach-water, then with a weaker solution of bleach-water, before you put it in storage. Then when you drain the system, the water in the now-sterile WH will have a tiny bit of bleach in it, which should be immune to growth. Flush again when you take the camper out of storage.

Bill

[wesslvm]

In prepping our TM for our second camping season, I decided to have a look at the anode. I intend to put it back in for another season. I'm attaching a picture for those who are curious since the older pics for this thread are no longer available.

Cheers,

Vince

[Freedom]

Somebody mentioned that they didn't know what a "used up" anode rod looked like. Here is a site which shows the comparison of the new one and a used one. http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/water-heater-anodes.html
The article on the subject is pretty informative also.

[B_and_D]

Now I'm REALLY afraid to pull mine out and look at it! We used our hot water heater this weekend for the first time in about 7 months, and we had emptied it over the winter because of the very low temperatures we've experienced. When we first ran some hot water, it smelled a lot like sulphur. This went away after I ran it for a while. I've never emptied the tank before. Is this normal?

[fcatwo]

I relaced our's this winter at the typical RV dealer price and the guy in the site next to us came over while I was installin it and told me they are available for 1/2 that price or less at home-stores and discount plumbing stores. I haven't checked his info out but may do so before my next replacement. Can anyone verify this?

On the other hand, saving $5.00 every other year on an item that may or may not be the same is not likely to change our lifestyle.

[Leslie & Nick]

After reading all the informative posts, I decided to check the anode in the TM 2619 water heater. It's a 2002 model that we just bought, so I (mistakenly) thought the anode would probably be in good shape. Boy, was I ever wrong! It was the thickness of a knitting needle, when it should be the size of a fat cigar. It was probably the original part. A local RV dealer had the exact replacement for about $9.50. I'll be checking the anode regularly. Should probably also check the anode in home water heater too, but it's not nearly as easy to remove.

[Pagosa Ray]

Leslie & Nick, Heard that anode rod should be replaced at least once a year. Forest River dealer mentioned this to me. Having purchased a pre-owned 2000 --2619. I called TM in Tennessee. Asked Ed about this. He said to me, what is an anode rod? What does it do? This surprised me. After I hung up,I pulled my anode rod. Hardly anything left. I replaced it immediately. I called Suburban. They told me how important this rod is & you replace it for 10 bucks or you replace the water heater. TM should be up on this.

[Leslie & Nick]

Pagosa Ray, Have not had occasion to call the TM plant yet, but I'm surprised that they didn't know what an anode rod is - maybe they refer to it by a different name (?). I was somewhat amazed to see how much sediment was in the bottom of the TM water heater. Tried to scoop out as much as I could with my fingers, then I hooked up fresh water and let the water flow through the system and flush out out the water heater. A bunch of white looking sediment flowed out, but I'm sure there's still more in there. I'll do it again in a few months and see if I can get more out.

[RockyMtnRay]

I'm finding these multiple reports of anode rods being nearly used up somewhat surprising. Reason is my '02 TM is still on its original anode rod and that rod shows very little degradation...sure, there's a bit of pitting, but by and large nearly all of the sacrificial material is still present. I have been faithfully checking the rod at the beginning of each camping season and even went out and bought a new rod a couple of years ago as I expected to have to replace the original one. But, noooo, no need to do that yet...even after 3 camping seasons it still looked pretty much like the picture that Vince (wesslvm) posted previously. :confused:

I'm attributing my anode rod's seemingly never-ending life to two factors...first and primarily, I drain the hot water heater just before returning home from every camping trip. That means the anode is only submerged in hot water for maybe 20 days a year. Secondly, most of the water I run through the trailer during camping trips is very pure, low mineral content mountain water...though I do usually leave home with the water heater filled with my domestic water which does come from a well and is moderately "hard".

I'm also somewhat surprised at the reports of large amounts of deposits/sediment...when I pull the anode for inspection each year I'm finding a trace amount of a white deposit inside the heater tank but nothing substantial at all. And a flush of the tank produces only clear water...no cloudiness.

My conclusion is that having water in the water heater only during periods of use of the trailer seems to greatly extend the anode's life as well as greatly reduce the amount of deposits. Anyone have contradictory experience?

[BobRederick]

RMRay

I agree. I replaced mine in an '04 at 1 year. The active material was gone for an inch or so near the plug end and only a small 1/8 inch support rod remained. I suspect it hadn't been drained by the original owner. I have been draining it since I got it.

The sediment was no doubt from the anode metal. Leslie & Nick indicated the rod was corroded away.

Bob

[B_and_D]

I bought a new anode for our hot water heater, but I can't get the old one out. We have the proper socket size and a big 'ol socket driver, but it just won't budge.

I might try heating it up, and then draining it, and then trying the socket & driver again. It's so stuck in there that the whole water heater seems like it's going to come loose from the brackets holding it in when I try to loosen it.

Any other ideas? Drill it out? I don't much like the idea of metal shavings in the water heater. I haven't tried banging on it with a hammer yet.

[rtcassel]

I bought a new anode for our hot water heater, but I can't get the old one out. We have the proper socket size and a big 'ol socket driver, but it just won't budge.

I might try heating it up, and then draining it, and then trying the socket & driver again. It's so stuck in there that the whole water heater seems like it's going to come loose from the brackets holding it in when I try to loosen it.

Any other ideas? Drill it out? I don't much like the idea of metal shavings in the water heater. I haven't tried banging on it with a hammer yet.
Perhaps you can get some more leverage by putting a piece of pipe on the end of the driver.

[Joseph]

Maybe something like WD-40 soaked on it overnight? Just a thought. Perhaps some of the Navy guys will have a better answer...:) Grunts just improvise, adapt and overcome...;) With the movement you are experiencing in the tank itself brute strength may not be the answer. And I would worry some about the solvent getting into the tank. Just thinking out loud. Would you share your solution? I will be replacing the same rod for the next camping season. I hope!

[Wavery]

I bought a new anode for our hot water heater, but I can't get the old one out. We have the proper socket size and a big 'ol socket driver, but it just won't budge.

I might try heating it up, and then draining it, and then trying the socket & driver again. It's so stuck in there that the whole water heater seems like it's going to come loose from the brackets holding it in when I try to loosen it.

Any other ideas? Drill it out? I don't much like the idea of metal shavings in the water heater. I haven't tried banging on it with a hammer yet.

You should try exactly what you have not yet tried.

Just tap around the outside of the hex, working your way around in a counter-clockwise direction.

I work with plumbing a lot here in my apartment building. Whenever I have to loosen a nut on a faucet or drain pipe, I always tap around the edge first. If I don't, it simply won't budge and I will eventually break something.

Crystals build up in the treads and act like tiny wedges. The tapping loosens up these little wedges and allows the fitting to turn.

If that doesn't work (and I think it will), use an impact wrench. It accomplishes the same thing only a lot more aggressively.

Wayne

[commodor47]

. . . Any other ideas? Drill it out? I don't much like the idea of metal shavings in the water heater. I haven't tried banging on it with a hammer yet.

This thread may be helpful, especially post #6

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4811&highlight=anode

I use a socket and ratchet set with a pipe extension on the ratchet handle to remove our anode. Use a strong, steady lift to break the anode free.

Dick

[cali camping]

You might try some "Break-Free" fluid allowed to set overnight, then try to tighten before trying to loosen.

[B_and_D]

Thank you all for the ideas. I will keep trying.

Dee

[Joseph]

Just an observation regarding anode rods. We purchased a 2006 TM new in January of 2007. For the time that we have had it the hot water heater has only had water in it only while we were actually using it. That is not much. Less than 3 months tops. There may have been water in it before purchase but I doubt it. Checking the rod yesterday, first time, while getting the TM ready for an upcoming weekend trip I noticed that the rod looked fine with minimum pitting except for a spot close to the drain plug / mounting nut. At a spot approximately 1 inch from that side of the rod it was almost completely eaten through. :eek: If it had eaten through most of the rod would be at the bottom of the hot water tank in one piece. Not sure how hard it would be to remove nor the effects of it rolling around in the tank but wanted to pass along the information as the access hole is not that big and fingers are not that long. ;) Might want to check the rod every year.:D

[mtnguy]

Just an observation regarding anode rods. We purchased a 2006 TM new in January of 2007. For the time that we have had it the hot water heater has only had water in it only while we were actually using it. That is not much. Less than 3 months tops. There may have been water in it before purchase but I doubt it. Checking the rod yesterday, first time, while getting the TM ready for an upcoming weekend trip I noticed that the rod looked fine with minimum pitting except for a spot close to the drain plug / mounting nut. At a spot approximately 1 inch from that side of the rod it was almost completely eaten through. :eek: If it had eaten through most of the rod would be at the bottom of the hot water tank in one piece. Not sure how hard it would be to remove nor the effects of it rolling around in the tank but wanted to pass along the information as the access hole is not that big and fingers are not that long. ;) Might want to check the rod every year.:D

Joseph, by what I have seen, the rods tend to deteriorate near the plug 1st. I don't think that should be a concern, as there is a thin wire that runs the length of the rod that is not part of the galvanic transfer process.....in other words the wire should not deteriotate and continue to hold the rest of the rod in place. So even though it looks like the rest of the rod will fall off because of the thinness at the plug, everything should stay in place until you need to replace the rod.

Checking the rod at least once a year is a great idea.

[ShrimpBurrito]

FYI - There is a picture of an old and new anode rod on this page:
http://www.rvcomfort.com/suburban/service/water_questions.php

http://www.rvcomfort.com/suburban/images/products/anode.jpg

Dave